classicretrofit Posted April 24, 2020 Posted April 24, 2020 David (dyerkes on Pelican) was one of our first customers and fitted his system into an '87 Carrera Targa. Here's his install thread (copied from the Electrocooler thread on Pelican). David chose to do a LOT of while-you're-in-there work on his car: regular installations are not this complex. Great install, though 👍🏻 I have begun my installation. Thus far I have removed my front valence as I am opting to install a RUF style spoiler so that I can avoid having to trim the fog light bracket on my factory valance. I also have installed both the condenser and drier. I will continue to provide updates as I progress. I chose to buy a RUF style front spoiler to replace my stock valence to avoid cutting the fog light bracket, and have a non-functional fog light. Since the RUF spoiler sits further way than the stock spoiler I was able to install the fog lights without trimming the headlight. I realize it’s more money, but I wanted to avoid permanently modifying the stock valence. In regards to the current setup requiring the removal of the stock washer tank, you obviously wouldn’t have to do it if you installed the fenderwell condenser in the rear fender. However, that would entail running a long run of a/c hose similar to the original setup the full length of the car, but also would not be ideal for purposes of cooling. I was happy to lose the 30lbs of dead weight from my front fender, and didn’t have a problem replumbing the 2 windshield systems along with the headlight washers using the stock intensive windshield washer reservoir located in the frunk. (CR: note that we now offer our 911 washer tank upgrade to solve the problem/weight of the large washer tank). I traded numerous emails with Jonny to further clarify my understanding of the directions, and he has been nothing short of fantastic. A couple of things to mention (CR: since corrected at our end), I had to shorten the horseshoe strap by an inch on the tub side as it interfered with the the twist on the factory bracket, and I also had to drill a new hole in the strap at the correct level to align with the existing threaded hole in the tub. I also had to adjust the angle of the bracket that holds the drier so that it doesn't make direct contact against the condenser fins. I still need to install a piece of the foam padding provided between the drier and condenser, but I will save this for when I install the hoses and make the final fit adjustments. I should have my install done this coming week. I have all the new a/c lines run and connected along with the on/off switch, along with the drier, fenderwell condenser and cabin hoses. All that remains are installing the hoses in the trunk. Although it took me a long time to complete my install, that is not a reflection upon the product, nor the installation instructions, but rather other activities competing for my time. I have also taken the time to replace my side and center vents as the foam on the flaps had long ago dry rotted. After placing an order for new ones, I played around with the old vents and I was successful at fully disassembling them, and I plan to replace the foam with rubber and either keep them as a spare, or list for sale. I decided to mount my on/off switch in my center console, and chose to create a custom insert to house the switch, emergency flasher, rear window defroster, voltmeter and AFR gauge. After I finished my install, and following running the tests I took it out for a spin to see the initial results. Ambient temps have cooled off to a mild 88F with 44% humidity, unlike the 100+ temps with 80% humidity we have experienced up until yesterday’s. My vent temps ranged from 39F to 45F with the fan set to setting II. Prior to the test trip, my car had been parked in my garage, so there was no sun heat sink. While I have the upgraded alternator, the battery wasn’t fully charged as it has been off the road for 8 months, and had been drained by my having been working on the install of the unit. I decided to test again once temps had gone back up, and I had run the car long enough to fully recharge the system. Thus far I am very pleased with the results. Day 2 - temps remain in the upper 80s, and are scheduled to stay there for the next week (doesn´t it figure that when I want it hot, it won´t live up to what is normal weather for this time of year). Interior temp prior to turning on the A/C was about 89F with relative low humidity. After about 5 minutes the cabin temperature was about 78F, and vent temp of 43F. Like yesterday, the lowest vent temp was just below 40F. Using the high output alternator, the voltage with the a/c off it was 14.1+ volts, and with it switched on it rarely went below 13.9 volts. The only electrical items operating the entire time was the radio, otherwise with the a/c on, it was the compressor and fans. While with the windows down and a/c off it wasn´t a bad day, with the windows up and a/c on it was very comfortable. Points to consider: For those of you awaiting the arrival of your new a/c system, you may want to consider making decisions on the following items: 1) fog lights - whether to trim the supporting bracket on your factory valance and gut the fog light (Jonny indicates that he will be coming up with an alternative to re-activate it at a later time) versus doing as I am doing by getting an aftermarket spoiler that pushes the fog lighrs further forward in order to not interfere with the new condenser. I you go the same route I have allow enough time to receive it, get it test fitted and have it painted. 2) push button placement - make your decision as to whether you are going to install it in your dash or in a center console (if you have one). I decided to mount it in the center console since the existing dials become useless once you implement the new solution. I decided to remove the bracket containing the 2 a/c dials and replace it with a gauge panel sold by 9xauto.com (actually bought 2, 1 that is blank, and another containing a voltmeter). If you aren't needing your existing a/c you can begin the removal of the existing center console buttons and getting your replacement panels in hand. 3) prep for compressor installation - if you decide to install the compressor in the smuggler's box, you may want to consider getting a replacement lid that has holes in it for added venting. While Jonny has indicated that no additional cooling for the compressor is required, I decided it couldn't hurt to provide a means of heat to escape the otherwise enclosed area. If you go this route you can take care of it in advance. 4) windshield washer - you will need an alternative to the large wheel well tank in order to provide space for the new condenser (CR: we now offer the 911 washer tank kit). Doing so will allow you to clean the wheel well area in preparation for your condenser install. I already had the secondary booster bottle option in my trunk, so I chose to re-plumb my system so that all 3 systems (headlight, regular windshield and intense wash) continue to function regardless of the fact that I only use the regular windshield washer function. There are some good posts on this site that help you understand the plumbing. Since I wasn't using my old a/c system I moved forward with the removal of all my existing components prior to having received my new system.
classicretrofit Posted April 26, 2020 Author Posted April 26, 2020 Feedback after several months: At the start of today's test drive I was sweating having only stepped out of my house and into the car, got chilled only after a couple minutes, and ended the ride dry and cool (still had moisture on my back, but only cars equipped with seat cooling could address this issue). I have had vent temps as low as 39F, but normally it’s between 43F and 53F. I still believe I have tweaking to do, but I am already a 100% convinced it was a worthwhile upgrade/investment.
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