classicretrofit Posted April 24, 2020 Posted April 24, 2020 Merv fitted Electrocooler to his 911 and had a few questions along the way. Some of them were covered in the manuals: always read the manuals carefully. We helped Merv out through our Facebook page. Here's the discussion! I was attempting to put the condenser fittings on the condenser and I have an issue, the o-ring side of the fitting appears to be bottoming out in the condenser before the flange plate seat flat on its location about .03/.04 ( 1 mm). Do I put a shim under the flange to compensate, take material off the o-ring side so everything seats or replace fitting I’m worried about the o-ring location lining up CR: Is it going in ‘square’? find you have to hold it whilst tightening the screw. Yes it’s going in square. I thought the same so I took the o-ring off to investigate and the fittings bottom out prior to the flange plate seating on the boss of the condenser so I don’t believe it’s an assembly problem. I think the post is either too long or the bores too shallow, I don’t have my micrometers here to verify. CR: I don’t think the flange seating is is critical as long as the fitting body itself is square. The o ring does the work. You could put a washer under the screw head if you want it to look right. There is some variance on the condensers as they are made by a few different manufacturers. It’s a Boxster condenser in case you wondered. A few wiring questions. Can I hook the hot leads on the wiring looms to the four positions on your fuse panel that are always hot and where do the ambient and cabin sensors go? Do the three blue wires tie in to the wire from that back of the defrost? it looks like that is what the wiring diagram is inferring. CR: 12v on any blue wire will cause the compressor to run slow. The best thing to do is to test the wire you want to connect to with a voltmeter. E.g. defog function. You don’t want the system to always run slow, just when the defog is on. If you have our upgraded alternator, you don’t need to connect any of the blue wires. OK I have the upgraded alternator so thank you. I can’t get power to the switch, I hooked it up to power under the dash and then directly to fuse panel but no does not illuminate, the blower works using the slide controls but I cannot get the button to work: maybe it’s defective, I don’t know. CR: You have to start the engine for the switch to light up. The ECU monitors the voltage. It must be above 12.6 for the switch to light. I got everything hooked up the button works with the car at idle , however it only appears that the fan is running at one speed? Let me know what you think. CR: The cabin blower fan is controlled by the original sliders in the car. Did these work with the original fresh air blower? This circuit is completely independent from the other ECU wiring etc. Make sure you don’t install the plug in our blower the wrong way. The plug cable must come up from the bottom as per the instruction manual. I guess I misunderstood the instructions. I thought the LED controlled the fan speed as well. I have adequate fan speed with the levers through the clock vent, the other lower vents not as much. I probably won’t charge the system until I get the car out this spring: I need to put the carpet in and the rest of the upholstery before I can take it to be charged, the compressor seems to be cycling as well, so I think everything is good for now.
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