Jonny Retrofit Posted January 15, 2024 Posted January 15, 2024 The 911-FPR and 911-FP3 fuse panels are an essential upgrade for all "impact bumper" model Porsche 911s 1974-1989. The main features are: Uses standard ATO blade fuses Integrated relays for improve headlamp performance LED fuse blown indicators Simple installation. No modifications required to existing wiring No crimping, soldering or special tools required. 911- FPR replaces the front fuse blocks. There are 21 fuse ways labelled as per the Porsche numbering system on the fuse box cover. It also has dedicated relays on the main and dipped headlamp circuits. Typically, the relays improve the brightness of your headlamps as they relieve the lighting switch from carrying heavy current. Please refer to this video to confirm what is in your package: DISCLAIMER This equipment must be installed by an auto electrician or persons of equivalent level of competence. Failure to follow the installation procedure can result in damage to the vehicle and surrouundingd, its wiring harness and injury. The fuse ways either side of the relays (labeled 1, 2 , 3 and 4) are rated 8A max. They are intended to be used for powering standard filament headlamp bulbs or LEDs up to 100W (using ceramic bulb connectors) . All other fuse ways are rated 25A. 30A fuses should NEVER be fitted in any position.
Jonny Retrofit Posted January 15, 2024 Author Posted January 15, 2024 Before You Start The installation is straightforward and can be completed comfortably in 1 to 2 hours by a competent person. We do, however, draw your attention to our disclaimer above. There are a few wiring peculiarities with some later models. Please see the sections at the end of this document, particularly if you have a European 1987 MY Carrera 3.2 or a 'fully loaded' car with extra electrical equipment You will need the following tools: A flat head medium sized blade screw driver for the screw terminals. A 'Philips' (crosshead) screw driver for the mounting screws. Cutters (for cutting cable ties). We strongly advise to take reference photos of the original fuse box before you start. Pay close attention to the placement of original external brass links. Take close ups of the wire connections on the top and bottom rows. Try also to identify any non standard wiring (particularly alarm systems). The fuse panel is 'plug and play' provided you install all wires in a like for like placement. There is no need for extra wire links or loops especially on the headlamp circuits but these may have been added by a previous owner so check the factory wiring diagram. If you need to remove an existing relay kit, there is a guide here
Jonny Retrofit Posted January 15, 2024 Author Posted January 15, 2024 Front Panel Preparation. Referring to the original fuses, make a note of the ratings of each fuse. Both the old 'bullet' fuses and the modern blade fuses are colour coded. Confusingly, the colour codes are not the same. Note: Fuse colours are for guide only - some colours do vary. we note that 'brown' and 'tan' fuses are easily confused. ATO fuses have the rating printed clearly on the top. Note: The blade fuses don't have exact matches for rating. We haven't encountered any problems with using the slightly lower 15A and 7.5A fuses in place of 16A and 8A. We provide enough fuses for a standard car. If your fuse values have been changed you may have to purchase additional fuse values. We recommend Littelfuse ATO blade fuses. Populate your new panel with the fuses provided. Loosen all the screw terminals on the panel. They may be stiff due to the manufacturing process. You are now ready to start the installation.
Jonny Retrofit Posted January 15, 2024 Author Posted January 15, 2024 Literally thousands of these panels have been installed by now. Everybody has there own methods but we still favour the following method unless you know the wiring very well and have excellent photos. Note: Since the looms were installed in the factory by humans, there are cases where there is not enough slack in the loom to perform this method. 1. Disconnect the negative terminal (earth strap) from the battery. 2. If you have an existing relay kit to remove, see the removal instructions further on in this document. 3. 'Crack' loose all the screw terminals on the original panel in the car and retighten finger tight Don't take the wires out at this stage. You are just breaking the seal of 30 years or more! 4. Loosen the six screws that hold the original fuse blocks in place. Don't remove them fully yet. 5. Using two long cable ties, loosely strap the new panel in front of the original so that you have access to the bottom row of screw terminals, both on the original and new panels. Don't worry about the gasket at this stage. 6. Starting at the left hand end (rear of car), transfer each wire from the original screw terminal to the new one until you have completed the bottom row. Note that in many cases there are multiple wires in the same terminal. It is vital that you are methodical and take your time. Complete each terminal fully before moving to the next one. Bear in mind that greatest cause of odd behaviour when complete is forgetting to skip a terminal on the bottom row if there is no wire present on the original panel. 7. When you have completed the bottom row, remove the cable ties and pull the new panel away from the old fuses to access the six mounting screws for the original blocks. Set the screws to one side (you will be reusing them). The old fuse blocks are now just 'hanging' on the top row wiring. 8. Now, starting at the left hand end, transfer each top row wire across to the new panel. Do not transfer the brass links. Skip the 'H' terminal at this stage but read the Additional Headlamp Feed section at the end of this document for information. This time, you will be able to remove the three original blocks as you go along for improved access. 9. Insert the gasket behind the new panel. It has a correct way up so please note the screw hole orientation. The gasket must be fitted to electrically isolate the back of the panel from the metal bracket. 10. The new panel is mounted using four of the original mounting screws. The supplied nylon spacers must be fitted between the panel and the metalwork of the 'fuse box'. It can be helpful to 'stick' the spacers in the gasket with some masking tape to aid installation. 11. Screw the panel down to the metalwork. Note that is critical that the metalwork is grounded to vehicle chassis for the headlight relays to function. The headlights will not work without the panel screwed to grounded metalwork. 12. Recheck every screw terminal for tightness. 13. Reconnect battery and check all electrical systems.
Jonny Retrofit Posted January 15, 2024 Author Posted January 15, 2024 Links and Intermediate terminals The new fuse panel has built in links between some terminals, replicating the brass 'bus bars' on the rear of the original blocks. These are marked clearly on the fuse panel with 3 white horizontal lines: Late model cars may have extra 'intermediate' terminals fitted in between the numbered terminals. These wires can be fitted to either adjacent terminal on the new panel. For example, if you find a wire on a terminal between 7 and 8 on the old fuse block, then wire it to 7 or 8 on the new panel. On some cars with lots of accessories, it may seem like there are too many wires and not enough terminals but a thousand installs down the line, we have not encountered a car that cannot be made to work.
Jonny Retrofit Posted January 15, 2024 Author Posted January 15, 2024 Lid The original lid will fit back on but to get a perfect fit, may require a very small notch taken out of the front side to clear the end of the panel.
Jonny Retrofit Posted January 15, 2024 Author Posted January 15, 2024 Additional Headlamp Feed An extra terminal marked 'H' is provided to bring additional power to the headlamp circuit. This can allow the car to be upgraded to 100/80W bulbs. To perform this upgrade an additional feed wire (not supplied) can be fitted between the battery positive terminal and the 'H' Terminal on the fuse panel. Fitting the extra headlamp feed can also help to spread the current load on cars with additional equipment, even though standard headlamps are fitted.
Jonny Retrofit Posted January 15, 2024 Author Posted January 15, 2024 Diagnostic LED fault indicators Your new fuse panel features a red LED on each fuse way. These can serve two purposes. In normal operation, with fuses fitted, the LED will indicate a blown fuse. Note the LED will only be lit if the circuit feed is live. For example, if the fuel pump fuse has blown, the LED will only light when the fuel pump is being 'told' to run. For diagnostic purposes, the LED can be used to trace faults in the electrical systems of the car. Simply take the fuse out for the circuit you wish to test. For example, if you suspected your turn signal switch to be defective, remove that fuse and check for the LED illumination when the switch is operated.
Jonny Retrofit Posted January 16, 2024 Author Posted January 16, 2024 Why is there no link between headlamp fuses 3 & 4? Short answer. Position 3 goes through the headlamp relay, position 4 does not. Headlamps will function correct on all models (most use positions 1 and 3 only). You DO NOT need to add any external links top or bottom - if you do you might find you lights will not switch off! Long answer: On all 911s the headlamp stalk wires enter and positions 1 and 3. On most 911s, position 2 and 4 are not occupied and there is a link on the back of the original fuse block between 3 and 4. On our current fuse panel there is no link shown between 3 and 4 at the top (the link is internal to the fuse panel on the output). So why no link? Read on... In 1986, in UK, Swedish and maybe some markets (not USA), Porsche introduced a dim/dip electronics module into the lighting circuit which illuminated the dip beams at half intensity when the side lights are switched on (a bit like daytime running lamps today). On these cars there is another white wire at position 2 and a yellow/black wire in position 4. If you have these wires then you have the dim dip option (M062). The yellow/black wire comes from the dim/dip module but it cannot be put through a relay or the relay will buzz/chatter. For this reason the fuse at position 4 DOES NOT go through the relay. Picture below of 1986 UK car showing Swedish option M062 for dim/dip headlamps. Note extra wires at positions 2 and 4.
Jonny Retrofit Posted January 16, 2024 Author Posted January 16, 2024 Troubleshooting Please refer to the Troubleshoot guide here
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