Jonny Retrofit

Refit the orginal black dash tray. This does need some modification to let the two vent pipes through. Do not reassemble the rest of the dashboard until the system has been tested.

Installation pictures coming soon. Please refer to RHD install as the LHD is almost a mirror image of the RHD. We are looking to produce a set of photos for this section. If you have a LHD Landrover install, please do contact us sales@classicretrofit.com

Hi Peter, that is good to know and apologies your post slipped through the net.

Identify the 2 halves of the replacement plasic 'lid'. Attach the cut foam pieces to each lid (foam sticks to the underside of lid - e.g. inside the triangular section) and install in the car using the screws you previously removed from the original metal lid. Fit the 2 windscreen vent air-valves (with servos attached) on top of the replacement lids. Fit the 45mm duct connectors on top of the air-valves; the windscreen vent restrictor gets sandwiched between the top of the passenger side air-valve and the 45mm duct connector. Attach the 2 windscreen vent valves to the air hoses that go to the windscreen vents. You can use the original windscreen screen demist hoses but you may need to shorten them slightly.

If possible, have the system pressure tested with nitrogen at 150- 250 PSI. This will immediately show any leaks due to bad hose crimps or torn o-rings. Fill the system with 600g of R134A refrigerant. Do this with the system OFF. Do not fill with 'cans' - use a proper A/C filling machine or take the car to an A/C centre. Do not add any oil. Oil is already in the compressor.

11. On the cabin side, turn the harness to the centre of the car. 12. Feed the 12 way grey and black connectors, the ground lug and red power input through the hole in the rear /centre of the dash, down to the fuse box (remove the fuse box cover first). 13. Connect the grey 20-way connector and black 12-way (fan) connector to the back of the control panel. 14. Connect the two windscreen servo connectors - NB it doesn't matter which is which. 15. Connect the 12v interior lights wire - confirm this is the correct wire by turning the side lights on and test with a meter.

4. Plug in the water valve. 5. Plug in the temperature servo. 6. Plug in the temperature sensors. 7. Plug in the blower fan. 8. Plug in the recirc servo. 9. Plug in the compressor. 10. Connect the ground lug to the M6 bolt at the top of the fender where it meets the bulkhead.

1. Identify the compressor end of the harness. Feed this through the bulkhead from the cabin side through the rubber cable grommet. 2. Once through the grommet in the engine bay, turn the harness towards the blower, thread behind the blower, following the existing harness along to the fender. 3. Run the harness along the inner fender and down to the compressor.

Hose Routing There are many ways of routing the refrigerant hoses; see below for the for the basic circuit. As long as you follow this scheme, you can route the hoses as you wish. Note the placement of the charging ports. Please note that we provide 4m of each size which should suit most applications. Contact us if you need more but the goal is to minimise hose length to increase efficiency. Measure twice, cut once! Identify the fittings noting that there are two different hose sizes (#6 and #8) used. The larger #8 hose is used between evaporator and compressor and between compressor and condenser only. Position of charge ports is up to you and dependent on installation. Dry fit the hoses without the clips and cut hoses to size for your installation.

7. Fit the larger flexible ducting cross car between the lower port on the passenger side divider to the driver side divider's port, fix with cable ties. 8a. Fit the control panel: The control circuit board must be removed from the control panel before fitting. Firstly remove the knobs (they pull off). Then remove the PCB retaining clip - it slides up. 8b. Fit the control panel plastic bezel (without the circuit board attached to it) into it's oval shaped depression in the dash, add the black screws at either end of it and fix in place with nuts inside the dash. Push the control circuit board into position from the inside of the dashboard, the holes in the circuit board align onto the pins on the back of the plastic bezel. The protrusions on the back of the plastic bezel and the circuit board should fit through the original rectangular aperture in your dash panel when assembled as described above, however depending on your specific vehicle the right hand edge of the aperture may obscure the LEDs on the right side of the board from shining through the red lens in the bezel. If this is an issue for you, you may want to use a mini belt sander (or similar) to extend the right side of the aperture further to the right. 8c. Push the 'goal post' clip downwards to secure the circuit board to the bezel. 8d. Install vents and knobs 9. Connect the ductwork from the two upper ports on the passenger side divider to the vents on the back of the centre control panel and fix with cable ties.

The dashboard kit includes foam pieces and 2 partitions to divide the dash section. 1. Start by fitting the side pieces of foam to the passenger side. 2. Lay in the large piece of foam, starting at the bulkhead, stick the foam around and trim off to the require length. 3. Fit the foam tape around the divider and push the part inside the triangular section, it locates by pushing against the inboard edge of the large piece of foam just fitted. 4. Trim the foam around the bulkhead aperture and the tabs for the foot flaps. Cut the hole for the foot vent ( not shown in picture ). Use any offcuts from the large piece of foam to patch any 'holes' in the foam. 5. Repeat on the driver side of the vehicle. using the smaller piece of rectangular foam. 6. Fit the directional foot/leg vents

After the lid has been removed, you can see inside the triangular section. Remove the clips from the footwell flaps and remove the entire assembly At this point, have a good clean out and vacuum of the whole area.

This guide shows the installation of a Right-hand drive dash kit, installation of the LHD kit is similar but with the components flipped to the opposite side of the vehicle. In order to install the dash kit, the exiting dash needs to be disassembled. This includes removal of the radio holder, the grey finishing panel and the black plastic dash tray. There are plenty of online forums and videos on how to do this so we won't cover it here. Eventually, you will get to the metal dash 'lid' that sits on top of the triangular cross car ventilation plenum. Around the edge of this lid there are about a dozen self tapping screws which need to be removed, then the metal dash lid can be removed. Save the screws for refitting the new lid(s).

The dashboard kit maximises the efficiency of the cooling/heating and also allows improved air distribution, for both Right-hand drive and Left-hand drive vehicles. Key features: 1. Divides the large dash board space into smaller insulated compartments so that the cold AC air is not heated by the surrounding metalwork. 2. Provides directional centre and lower foot/leg vents. 3. Provides rotary fan and heat controls. 4. Provides A/C, windscreen demist and recirculation controls. 5. Windscreen demist, recirculation and temperature blending are servo controlled. The original mechanical cables and levers are no longer required. Right-hand drive assembly: Left-hand drive assembly:

The electric compressor sub assembly is mounted to existing holes in the chassis rail. These holes are provided for the steering box on both chassis rails (to facilitate RHD and LHD installs). E.g, on a RHD vehicle the compressor is mounted using the holes in the LH chassis rail. The compressor is IP67 rated so suitable for 'temporary water immersion'. The compressor sub assembly comes pre assembled. Identify the holes in the chassis rail on the opposite side to the steering box. The heavy black cable on the compressor uses one of the bolts for the earth. Clean the chassis back to shiny metal on this bolt hole to provide a good electrical earth. Right-hand drive compressor assembly onto chassis rail: Left-hand drive compressor assembly onto chassis rail: From under the vehicle, offer up the compressor to the inside of the chassis rail and attach with the three long M8 bolts and nuts provided. Use one of the bolts to secure the black earth cable.

In order to create space in the engine bay for the Classic Retrofit AC blower unit, the original fresh air inlet plenum needs to be modified. The right-hand drive version is shown in the images below, the left-hand drive version and modification process is symmetrically opposite. 1. Remove the air inlet grille on top of the fender. Undo the screws to remove the air inlet plenum from the vehicle. You may also need to remove the bracket fixing the wheel arch to the fender. 2. Using the cutting template provided, mark the cut line on the plenum. 3. Cut the Plenum on the cut line (a circular cutting disk works well), and clean the edge up with sandpaper or similar on a flat surface to make the cut edge co-planar. 4. Fit the new metal end cap with it's tab's clipping over the plenum. Adjust the angle of the tabs with an adjustable spanner to match the plenum surface if required. Whilst pushing the end cap and plenum together to compress the sealing foam gasket, drill 2.5mm holes into the plastic plenum through the holes in the end cap tab. Fix the end cap to the plenum with the 4mm screws provided. 5. Reassemble the plenum onto the vehicle under the front fender.

5. Move the blower into position and attach the fresh air inlet to the inlet duct under the fender, secure the duct with cable ties or if you prefer you can use a Jubilee clip. Put the flanged bolts loosely into the lower fixing L-bracket to hold the blower in place. 6. Attach the top bracket to the exsiting holes on the bulkhead. Use the M8 rubber washers against the bulkhead, 7. Fit the screws through the bracket into both sides of the blower. Fit loosely at this stage. 8. Now that the blower is roughly in position, it can be adjusted for fitment using the side and lower screws. The most important thing is that the air outlet seals against the foam gasket surrounding the hole in the bulkhead. 9. Connect the cylinder head spigots to the blower unit with the coolant hose supplied, fix the hose to the cylinder head spigots using the original Jubilee clips. Bleed the heater as per original factory instructions. Top up coolant level as required. 10. Fit the expansion valve block to the evaporator on the front of the blower unit, using the M5 x 45mm Socket Cap Head Screws provided. 11. Fit the 8mm ID drain tubes to the drain spigots at the bottom of the blower and secure with small cable tie. Cut them to the length required for your installation. When the system is commissioned, switch on the fan and test for air leaks at the front bulkhead. Adjust the blower position to minimise air leaks when the fan is running. Often the blower needs pushing up/back against the bulkhead while an assistant tightens the screws. It is very important to get air leakage to a minimum here, if necessary you can add a second foam gasket around the bulkhead aperture.

3. The blower unit is shipped with it's fan removed so it will need assembling; slot it into it's bottom mounting plate in the orientation shown in the image above, and fix in place with the three M4 flanged nuts. Offer up the blower unit into the engine bay with the fan sliding under the fender. If necessary the fan can be placed in first and slid under the fender, followed by the blower unit next to it, and then attach the fan to the blower unit. Make sure that the yellow temperature sensor is fed through the new recirc hole into the cabin under the fan. 4. Cable tie the sensor onto it's seat inside the grille and fit the grille, pull the excess wiring back through into the engine bay.

Firstly remove the existing heater blower unit from the vehicle. After this is done, have a clean up of the area where the blower sits. These instructions show a right hand drive vehicle. The left hand drive install is largely the same, except on the other side of the vehicle. 1a. The new blower provides a recirculation function which requires a hole to be cut in the angled 'shelf'. Remove any trim from the inside of the vehicle. 1b. Print out the cutting template on paper DEFENDER Bulkhead Cutting Template for Recirc Inlet Hole - CRM-800-ECO-P-10188-B1-.pdf(change the print scaling to achieve a true 1:1 print and check it's size matches the reference dimensions). Cut out the template. 1c. Fit the new blower unit's lower mounting plate using nuts and bolts through the original heater mounting holes in the (RHD) orientation shown below, leaving the bolts loose and apply the Cutting Template over the mounting plate in the orientation shown. Adjust the lower mounting plate's position so that the edge of the cutting template (arrowed) is aligned to the outboard edge of the existing bulkhead blower aperture (arrowed). Tighten the nuts and bolts holding the lower mount plate in this position 1d. Mark the centre of the hole on the bulkhead using the template, and drill the hole using a 102mm/ 4inch hole saw. Deburr the edge of the hole. 1e. Offer up the recirc air aperture bezel to the inside of the passenger footwell and drill the 3 holes for the self tapping screws. 2. Clean the area around the original bulkhead blower outlet aperture and fit the foam gasket around it.

The HVAC blower supplied is a new design which replaces the factory heater only blower. It has the following features. 1. Modern heater core 2. Modern A/C evaporator (parallel flow type) 3. Heater shutoff valve (when in A/C mode) 4. Servo operated temperature blending. No more cables! 5. Servo operated fresh air valve 6. High performance blower fan.

The Electrocooler A/C compressor can use up to around 80A. The actual current draw depends on the ambient conditions, the cabin temperature and the battery voltage. The ECU monitors these parameters and adjusts the compressor speed so that the battery does not drain, so, if you run the standard 300 Tdi alternator, the ECU may well reduce A/C performance or prevent the compressor from running at all. During testing, we have upgraded our alternator to the 100A unit (as fitted to the Discovery). This has proven to be ample to run the car and the A/C but if you have more accessories you may need to explore fitting a higher output unit. Earth Straps It is strongly advised to inspect and/or replace battery and earth straps. The studs and landing surface of any earth points should be cleaned until shiny. It is important that any earth strap lug sits flat on the landing surface so that maximum contact area is achieved. The same is true for attaching the compressor earth to the chassis. Batteries The kit has been tested with standard batteries typically 75Ah. The battery must be in good order. The A/C will use some battery reserve at idle. If you have a lesser rated battery, you run the risk of depleting it sooner but this is negated by having a high output alternator. Settings can be changed within the A/C ECU to guard against this at the detriment to A/C performance at low engine RPM.

Preparation The installation is not difficult, but some areas of the car (e.g. around the blower and the dash area) are cramped and awkward to work in. Take your time and be methodical. The install can be undertaken with common workshop tools. The only special tool required is the hose crimp tool. The hose crimps are ‘oetiker’ single ear clamps. The tool required is readily available, cheap to buy and referred to as ‘Oetiker pliers or pincers’ Disconnect vehicle battery You will be connecting some fairly high current wires so please make sure the vehicle is electrically safe to work on. If the vehicle already has factory or dealer fitted air conditioning, these parts need to be removed prior to the fitment of the kit. This includes: · Remove the engine driven compressor and bracket. · Remove the front condenser and brackets. · Remove all hoses and the drier. · Remove the underdash evaporator and vents. · Removal of any other A/C specific factory parts

ElectroCooler Kit The kit you have purchased contains the following parts: • Electric A/C compressor and control ECU. • Condenser, fan and shroud assembly. • Replacement blower unit, housing modern fan, heater and evaporator. • Lightweight narrow wall hose set with custom fittings. • ECU wiring loom and sundries. We don’t provide: • Rubber grommets (for routing hoses and wiring) • ‘Oetiker’ crimp pliers / pincers (for crimping hose fittings) • Replacement washer bottle but generic or Td5 bottle can be used Tools and sundries needed: • Good quality set of allen keys • Standard wrenches and socket set. • Side cutters • Small selection of male and female spade terminals (6.8mm) • Crimp tool for above • Selection of cable ties (300mm) for hose and wiring routing • Hose cutters (although a clean set of garden shears are excellent for this purpose) • Sharp knife (for cutting duct) Please note that all fastenings in our kit are METRIC.

SAFETY FIRST Although the installation of the components can be safely undertaken on a DIY basis, when it comes to filling and commissioning of the system, it is essential to seek professional assistance. Air conditioning hoses run at high pressure and must be correctly crimped and pressure tested with the correct equipment. We recommend that the initial filling and commissioning of the system is carried out by a qualified air conditioning engineer. We absolutely DO NOT recommend that the system is filled from ‘cans’ of R134a. Step away from the ebay or Harbour Freight DIY fill kit and seek professional help.