Jonny Retrofit

I guess this is subjective to some degree. Personally, I have never experienced this because the engine is usually producing more NVH than the compressor! Have a great trip!

This isn't an AC settings issue, it is definitely alternator / charging system. These alternators produce 75/80 amps at idle. Either the 'exciter' isn't working ( which is in the clock instrument) or there is wiring issue or perhaps a voltage regulator issue.

Did you use the foam rubber strips under the top bracket supplied?

Refit the orginal black dash tray. This does need some modification to let the two vent pipes through. Do not reassemble the rest of the dashboard until the system has been tested.

Installation pictures coming soon. Please refer to RHD install as the LHD is almost a mirror image of the RHD. We are looking to produce a set of photos for this section. If you have a LHD Landrover install, please do contact us sales@classicretrofit.com

Hi Peter, that is good to know and apologies your post slipped through the net.

Identify the 2 halves of the replacement plasic 'lid'. Attach the cut foam pieces to each lid (foam sticks to the underside of lid - e.g. inside the triangular section) and install in the car using the screws you previously removed from the original metal lid. Fit the 2 windscreen vent air-valves (with servos attached) on top of the replacement lids. Fit the 45mm duct connectors on top of the air-valves; the windscreen vent restrictor gets sandwiched between the top of the passenger side air-valve and the 45mm duct connector. On the passenger side place the air restrictor element in between the actuator and the air hose. This balances the air flow between the drivers and passenger side Attach the 2 windscreen vent valves to the air hoses that go to the windscreen vents. You can use the original windscreen screen demist hoses but you may need to shorten them slightly.

If possible, have the system pressure tested with nitrogen at 150- 250 PSI. This will immediately show any leaks due to bad hose crimps or torn o-rings. Fill the system with 600g of R134A refrigerant. Do this with the system OFF. Do not fill with 'cans' - use a proper A/C filling machine or take the car to an A/C centre. Do not add any oil. Oil is already in the compressor.

11. On the cabin side, turn the harness to the centre of the car. 12. Feed the 12 way grey and black connectors, the ground lug and red power input through the hole in the rear /centre of the dash, down to the fuse box (remove the fuse box cover first). 13. Connect the grey 20-way connector and black 12-way (fan) connector to the back of the control panel. 14. Connect the two windscreen servo connectors - NB it doesn't matter which is which. 15. Connect the 12v interior lights wire - confirm this is the correct wire by turning the side lights on and test with a meter.

4. Plug in the water valve. 5. Plug in the temperature servo. 6. Plug in the temperature sensors. 7. Plug in the blower fan. 8. Plug in the recirc servo. 9. Plug in the compressor. 10. Connect the ground lug to the M6 bolt at the top of the fender where it meets the bulkhead.

1. Identify the compressor end of the harness. Feed this through the bulkhead from the cabin side through the rubber cable grommet. 2. Once through the grommet in the engine bay, turn the harness towards the blower, thread behind the blower, following the existing harness along to the fender. 3. Run the harness along the inner fender and down to the compressor.

Hose Routing There are many ways of routing the refrigerant hoses; see below for the for the basic circuit. As long as you follow this scheme, you can route the hoses as you wish. Note the placement of the charging ports. Please note that we provide 4m of each size which should suit most applications. Contact us if you need more but the goal is to minimise hose length to increase efficiency. Measure twice, cut once! Identify the fittings noting that there are two different hose sizes (#6 and #8) used. The larger #8 hose is used between evaporator and compressor and between compressor and condenser only. Position of charge ports is up to you and dependent on installation. Dry fit the hoses without the clips and cut hoses to size for your installation.

7. Fit the larger flexible ducting cross car between the lower port on the passenger side divider to the driver side divider's port, fix with cable ties. 8a. Fit the control panel: The control circuit board must be removed from the control panel before fitting. Firstly remove the knobs (they pull off). Then remove the PCB retaining clip - it slides up. 8b. Fit the control panel plastic bezel (without the circuit board attached to it) into it's oval shaped depression in the dash, add the black screws at either end of it and fix in place with nuts inside the dash. Push the control circuit board into position from the inside of the dashboard, the holes in the circuit board align onto the pins on the back of the plastic bezel. The protrusions on the back of the plastic bezel and the circuit board should fit through the original rectangular aperture in your dash panel when assembled as described above, however depending on your specific vehicle the right hand edge of the aperture may obscure the LEDs on the right side of the board from shining through the red lens in the bezel. If this is an issue for you, you may want to use a mini belt sander (or similar) to extend the right side of the aperture further to the right. 8c. Push the 'goal post' clip downwards to secure the circuit board to the bezel. 8d. Install vents and knobs 9. Connect the ductwork from the two upper ports on the passenger side divider to the vents on the back of the centre control panel and fix with cable ties.

The dashboard kit includes foam pieces and 2 partitions to divide the dash section. 1. Start by fitting the side pieces of foam to the passenger side. 2. Lay in the large piece of foam, starting at the bulkhead, stick the foam around and trim off to the require length. 3. Fit the foam tape around the divider and push the part inside the triangular section, it locates by pushing against the inboard edge of the large piece of foam just fitted. 4. Trim the foam around the bulkhead aperture and the tabs for the foot flaps. Cut the hole for the foot vent ( not shown in picture ). Use any offcuts from the large piece of foam to patch any 'holes' in the foam. 5. Repeat on the driver side of the vehicle. using the smaller piece of rectangular foam. 6. Fit the directional foot/leg vents