Jonny Retrofit

We have just added a fittings pack to the website for the Porsche ‘belly pan’ condenser. The hose for second condensers is #6. https://www.classicretrofit.com/collections/electric-air-conditioning/products/porsche-911-belly-pan-condenser-fittings

Yes, correct. The unit as shipped is plug and play compatible with the Bosch unit.

That sounds like a typical early fuel injection issue. I would research how to setup / check the CIS.

Thanks. Haven’t had any issues caused by the second spark using that kind of timing light. The sparks are so close together, the light can’t ‘see’ them. If the light has an RPM feature and that is reading correctly, then the second spark is not the issue. What is more likely is that the timing scatter is upsetting your view of the reading. This occurs because the engine has no load so the box tries to compensate timing every ignition cycle. When you are on the road this doesn’t occur.

^ Yes, you can change the ECU ‘button mode’ to make the AC start when the blower is activated. The Porsche evaporator fan is high side switching so you also need to change the blower sense voltage to > 4v. Wiring is documented in Install manual. ECU commands are in the Setup and Test Manual.

Some cars use an electronic dim/dip device that is incompatible with a relay causing it to ‘chatter’ (buzz). This is used to provide a low voltage to the dipped beam as a substitute for a parking or ‘side’ light. We provide fuse 4 as a non-relayed path to the dipped headlight for this reason. Just wire the panel as per original and it will work. You don’t need to add any bridges or wires between terminals. You will be connecting to terminals 1 and 3 only - the bridging for both L and R headlight is done internally by the panel on the output side after the relay.

Yes, the contact relay is now standard with all kits.

Hi Yuichi, Is this the main 80A fuse that is blowing? if so, then it is possible that the system pressure is two high causing over current. Please check that the system has the correct amount of gas. Usually this is 600g for a single condenser and 650g for two condensers.

Just leave them disconnected. Do NOT connect together. 🙂

We have a few customers who run CDI+ from other ECUs. Essentially, leave the CDI+ with a flat curve as shipped. IIRC the Megasquirt takes the CDI RPM output (TD tacho drive pin) as an input. As you state, the tacho sweep on ignition can cause a false injection of fuel. You can switch off the tacho sweep using our software. Select the CDI+ menu, Adjust Config then untick 'Tacho sweep on Start'.

The bussing changes over the years but 1&2 is a new one on me. On later cars, all three are bussed and a wire link is required. Your observation is correct, there is no ground for the LEDs. The LEDs will only illuminate if the the accessory in question is 'on' and the fuse is blown (or removed). This is normal operation for these type of 'fuse blown' indicators. This is actually more useful since you can use the LED to establish whether the feed upstream of the fuse is working, simply by removing the fuse and checking the LED.

It's a common misconception that the tachos are 'driven' from a voltage signal. The opposite is true, the tacho input pin is pulled up to a voltage and the points or the CDI box GROUNDs it to create the square wave input. For this reason, the voltage observed depends on the tacho end, not the CDI or points end. It kind of depends on the tacho and the electronics inside it. 8v is fairly common. I would check your alternator/battery voltage as tacho weirdness can indicate a faulty voltage regulator.

On a full kit, there would be no reason to retain the original AC fan control as there is no longer a separate fan for AC. Our AC unit integrates Ac and fresh air into a single blower. As per the above, there is no temperature control because the system works to achieve a pre programmed cabin temperature of 21 deg C. You can change this when setting up. On.a half kit, the original evaporator blower is retained and you can retain the AC blower speed knob. The temperature knob would have no function for the same reason as above.

This extra link only appears on 1974 models (must be to do with only having 18 fuse ways). Our built in terminal links replicate the bus bars on the back of the blocks. You can add a wire link or you could nudge the allocation to the left where there are 4 terminals bussed together on out panel. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/170417-fuse-panel-diagram-picture.html

Hi Mark, apart from very early models, Porsche use brass 'ferules' crimped on to the ends of all wires that go to the fuse panel. So, if the wire end is bare, this is either not a standard wire or the wire has been cut. I would carefully review the fuse panel drawing for the '86 to work out what is original and what is not. The headlights will not work unless the panel is secured to the metal bracket. The gold plated mounting hole below the 'H' terminal provides the ground. I trust you found the install manual ok? It covers intermediate terminals and grounding. It is on this page: https://www.classicretrofit.com/pages/manuals-and-software