Sladey

OK so all is good now - but I thought I’d summarise what happened in case anyone else has the same issue. The system knows that the blower is running because of the voltage in the orange wire which comes from the blower. What voltage it is looking for is governed by the BLV value on the system. The BLV value is actually a range - it can either be UP TO (i.e. less than) the value or MORE THAN the value. So if it says <9 then it’s Up to (i.e. Less Than) 9 volts. If it says >9 then it’s Greater Than 9 Volts. You control how you set the value by including (or not) a minus sign. So BLV=9 will give you >9 (Greater than 9v), and BLV=-9 will give you <9 (which is what you want). I understand that the proper value for 911s is <9. My unit shipped with it set to <7 Now my blowers produce 7.7+ volts on speed 1, 3.5 on speed 2 and 0.8 on speed 3. Because of this, in it’s shipped state, my system thought the blower was off when I moved it to level 1 (because it wasn’t less than 7 volts) So it would work on levels 2 and 3 but not on level 1 When I posted this thread and Jonny told me about the BLV value I completely missed the presence (and importance) of the minus sign. So I then started changing the values to 10,9,8,and 7 but I was actually changing them to >10, >9, >8, and finally >7. it would work on >7 because my blower produced over 7v on blower speed 1. However it all confused the crap out of me because I thought I was setting it to required values and wasn’t understanding what I was getting. What really confused me was when I thought I was setting it back to the original value of 7 and I wasn’t getting the same behaviour as before. I’ve just now set BLV=-9 and tested it. AC works really well at all blower speeds. Just sharing in case anyone else has the same problem

I think I’ve sussed the problem. I’ve been missing the minus sign. So I’ve been typing BLV=8 instead of BLV=-8 - so it’s been looking for voltage greater than 8 instead of less than 8 I’ll change it and test it tomorrow

Another go at uploading the picture

OK after seeing you today Jonny I tried disconnecting the orange wire but that made no difference - it would then not switch on at any blower speed Coming home it would only work in blower 1 position which wasn’t enough to keep it cool. So then I ran some tests and produced some diagnostics On the diag output I seem to be getting the right/expected violates from the BLO readout but almost all of the time the diagnostics also says blower off. So with the engine running and blower on 1 I’m getting 7.8 v or thereabouts, on 2 it’s 3.8v or thereabouts, and in 3 it’s 0. Something volts. However each time the second to third item on the diagnostics says ‘blower off’ but I can hear it and feel it running. I tried disconnecting the orange wire again while running diagnostics and sure enough that changes the BLO voltage to 0. Something but the readout still says blower off.. On the attached screenshot I had the engine running and switched it to highest blower speed. It kept saying blower off Throughout all the the blowe voltages seems to behave as it should do - the connections on my sliders may not be great but I don’t think that’s the problem as the correct level of voltages is getting through. However that Parameter BlowerOff barely ever changes. I’d welcome some suggestions

After reading what I’d written I realised the only value I haven’t tried is 9 so I just popped out and tried that. With BLV set to 9 it pulses on all blower speeds, but if I switch the blower fully off then I immediately get the bright blue light. If I put the blower on then again the light stays on for 5 seconds and then goes back to pulsing. So I’ve re-set it to 7 so at least I can get some aircon (on blower speed 1) - as long as it doesn’t get too hot

Ok this is getting weirder. So I’ve run it at BLV=8 for the last couple of days and consistently the AC works fine on the lowest blower setting, but if I turn the blowers up to position 2 or 3 it initially stays on and then after about 5 seconds it goes off and reverts to the slow pulse. I’m going to the big DDK meet tomorrow and wanted to get it working on the higher speeds so thought I’d revert to BLV=7 which is how it’s been since installing it. As a tester first I set BLV=6 and ran it for a bit - but got same behaviour as at 8(?). So finally I set it to BLV=7. However it didn’t change anything - stayed as it has been for the last couple of days - works fine on blower position 1, but when you go to 2 or 3 it stops after about 5 seconds. This is weird because the setup is exactly as it was before I started changing the BLV values - but previously (as detailed in the first post) it would work on 2 or 3 but not on 1. Would welcome some thoughts here Cheers Mark

Any ideas?

OK so mixed success.... When I checked the BLV was actually set to 7 not 9. However I changed it to 10. The next day the buttong wouldn't go brigh at all - at any blower speed - it just kept pulsing. So last night I changed it down to 8 Now this morning it works brilliantly in blower 1 position (which is what I wanted) - however if you turn the blower up then it goes back to pulsing and won't work The only number I haven't tried is 9 but that doesn't seem like it would be better than 8 I should mentioned that the connections in my sliders don't feel great - they sometimes take a bit of wiggling to get the blower going - however once going it doesn't cut out or anything. And that hesitancy doesn't affect the blue light - when BLV was at 7 it would go bright blue as soon as the connection was made even if I had to do some wiggling Here are my current settings - any ideas? Mark (c) Classic Retrofit Ltd 2017 Electrocooler A/C ECU Settings: ======================================================================== Description Setting Value ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Firmware Version 1.17 Control Mode: Hi/Lo[0], Climate[1] MOD Climate[1] Compressor Drive Signal Sense [0-3] SIG PWM Hi, En Hi [0] Button Type: Mom[0], Lat[1], Blower[2] BUT Moment[0] Battery Low Voltage BLO 12.0 V Battery Moderate Voltage BMD 12.6 V Blower On Sense Voltage BLV > 8.0 V Compressor Target Current (max current) CTG 75.0 A Condenser fan on high threshold CFN 38.0 A Condenser fan off low threshold CFO 30.0 A Cabin Temperature Setpoint CTS 20.0 C Evap Temperature Cutout (freeze protect) ETC -2.0 C Max Time Below Good Voltage TBG 10 s Max Time Below Moderate Voltage TBM 50 s Compressor low speed [0-100] CLO 1 % Compressor high speed [0-100] CHI 90 % Controller Proportional Constant KP 8.00 Controller Integral Constant KI 0.01 Controller Derivative Constant KD 0.05 NTC Temperature Probe Constant KBET 3950 ------------------------------------------------------------------------ LIST:OK >

Thanks Jonny - will give that a try

IT LIVES!!!!!! yes I hadn’t got those two thin wires connected to the contactor. In my defense on the wiring diagram there are two bits that it says are optional - one is the defeat thing and the other is on the connector. I assumed these were part of the same “optional” defeat thing and therefore taped those two leads off. Also the way I’ve mounted my contactor the two connection spades were all but invisible so looking at the setup there was nothing obviously unconnected all good now and looking forward to driving in the coming nice weather thanks for your help

Thanks for coming back to me. I'm at work now so I'll have to revisit it tomorrow. I'll re-check the wiring in the morning. I haven't intentionally changed any of the wiring. Regarding the contactor relay - I'm misremembering this - there is an option to wire something in to stop the compressor if you choose to have heated seats for example. That seemed like added complexity to me and I didn't understand the instructions so I decided not to do that.

OK just to add to this I haven’t connected a contactor relay - the instructions say this is optional and I didn’t think I’d be needing it

OK so I’ve had a go tonight:_ Startup - engine idling, fan on, pc not connected Dim blue light Switched fan off - no change in blue light I connected up the PC - I’ve had real trouble with the connector - the USB connection isn’t very good and it can take a few goes until it connects properly and then I have to be careful not to move the laptop With the fan on I pushed the button - got bright blue light First pic - here is what was then I typed diag and got the following output (pic 2) I then tried switching off the engine (not turning the ignition all the way off) then restarted it ( it stalled first time) and got this (pic 3) Then I tried diag again and got this (pic 4) I tried CMP=50, CMO=0 - no change. I tried CON=1, CON=0 - no change - couldn’t hear the contractor but it’s hard to hear anything with my engine ticking over - I don’t know if that works without the engine running

Ok I’m away at the moment but will try tonight and post results. I didn’t hear the contractor click at all

The button seems to be reacting as normal - with the fan running the button was bright blue.

I”m presuming this is all sorted now but I thought I’d add to the conversation. I tried to connect mine for the first time today and had a lot of problems because the USB connector wasn’t making a great connection - the slightest movement and it lost connection. Eventually once it was connected and I was getting lights on inside the USB plug thing I taped it into place with some masking tape and avoided moving the laptop around. It all seemed to work OK after that.

Ok thanks

It’s OK I’ve Sussed that now

Thanks for that Jonny - one secondary point - on the drier there is a flow indicator. On the circuit which way does the fluid flow?