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  1. Has anyone out there locked an early style distributor with ignition points as there is no screw in the shaft to lock it out. Spoke to Jonny and suggested I look at some of the threads that may have contained pictures of the process. I understand you can pull the distributor apart and drill a hole and use a different type of screw and collect to lock. Have discussed it with the Porsche specialist and Jonny via voice call, but would like to see some photos of the process. Many thanks Frank
    1 point
  2. It’s as the title says really.Since I’ve got the car running again the weather has been rubbish so initially I put it down to it not being warm enough, but on a trip on Sunday it was quite stuffy in the car and we had the blue button on and off (with blowers blowing) and couldn’t feel any difference in the air coming out of the vents. The day before I’d changed the target temperature from 30 degrees to 18 in the hope that I would notice a difference Last weekend I tested the battery and at 900rpm tick over I’m getting 14.5V at the battery. Tonight I’ve logged into the ECU and tried to start the compressor. I’ve got the engine running. I can’t feel if it’s running or not - I’m feeling vibration through it but I’m also feeling that through the battery - general vibration of the car running. I tried CMP=1 and CMP=0 - both times got OK message but no change in how it feels I’ve uploaded the RUN output and also more detailed DIAG output, as well as a LIST output I did try changing SIG from 0 to 3 after reading another post on here (I’m not sure what compressor I have) but it didn’t change anything Any ideas?\ Sladey
    1 point
  3. IT LIVES!!!!!! yes I hadn’t got those two thin wires connected to the contactor. In my defense on the wiring diagram there are two bits that it says are optional - one is the defeat thing and the other is on the connector. I assumed these were part of the same “optional” defeat thing and therefore taped those two leads off. Also the way I’ve mounted my contactor the two connection spades were all but invisible so looking at the setup there was nothing obviously unconnected all good now and looking forward to driving in the coming nice weather thanks for your help
    1 point
  4. Thanks for the pointers. We saw that the AC manual had actually covered the F-body peculiarities 🙂 Today I ordered the kit with the 2 condensers. The engine will be getting a rebuild and while we're at it we'll do the AC installation. Is it correct that the ECU need not know how many condensers are present in the system? And that when steady state is reached (assuming the system is not out of thermal capacity), the temperature in cabin should be the same with 1 and 2 condensers?
    1 point
  5. I have tried, the blower is turned on, connected to a 47k resistor, and the voltage is guaranteed to run at 13v+ for more than 1 minute
    1 point
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