When the compressor is on a vibration is heard / felt. What advice do you have to remove or dampen these vibrations? We're thinking of inserting rubber between the mounting bracket and the chassis. Good idea?

In hot days (hot...not eaven the worst summer days) it does not do the job....it still gets hot inside.
I am from argentina we have lots of 30+ degree days....

I just got the car...i reviewed the way the AC is installed and it seems to be just like your manuals say.

How can i be certain the AC is working propperly?

Can I add the second condenser to my current system? will that make the air colder?

thanks
Juan

In addition, is there anywhere to find a breakdown of the changes from 1.12 or 1.15 to 1.17?

-Hooked up 12v and ground to fan to ensure its not a bad fan, it runs fine. 

-Tested in Putty and the compressor relay works fine

-Tested in Putty and the fan relay does NOT click. 

- When I type "Fan=1" the message return is "Fan:ok" but nothing happens and no click from the relay. 

This would indicate that the wiring to the relay is incorrect but I have triple checked based on the diagram and all is fine. I have the relay wired accordingly:

87= fan ground wire

86=white wire from ecu

30=ground

85=ground

On the "Isolating contactor relay" I have read that it doesn't matter which spades you connect the grey and black wire on, but I had tested in both positions to ensure I can rule this out as a possible cause and no fan in either position.

Anyways, I know that the fan wont turn on until the compressors draws 35amps but its definitely a wiring problem as I cant get the fan relay to click. 

the only think I can think of is
1. Its just a bad relay out of the box
2. Something is wrong in the ecu and the white wire coming from the ecu to the fan relay is not triggering properly. 

Any help is appreciated

-Alex. 

Does anyone have some measurements and photos to show where the sensors are supposed to go exactly?

 provided. The pre wired connector has a black wire on that location. Is this right? I have the optional isolating relay. Please advise.

thanks,

Greg

Hi Jonny.

The Singapore car that I spoke to you about 10 days ago or so, when the ignition is switched on,

after a short delay the compressor and condensor fan start running and won't stop until the 

ignition is switched off. The button has no control of the aircon, even though when you 

operate the button the brightness changes. 

If you remember I was unable to access the diagnostics at one stage and to make the

system work I had to bypass the main contactor, even though I had replaced it with a 200 amp

relay of the same type as original.

What do you think the problem could be?

Kind Regards.

In the Fuse box I connect. 

1.  5A The two yellow cables 

2.- 12V red cable 

3. 15 A TWO Fans 

4. 5A red cable from ECU Grey

5. The blue cables I DIDN'T connected. 

NOTE: I have a 1974 Porsche 911S and has some cables from the previous blower and regulators that I attached a picture. Maybe is that the problem? I attached a picture. 

The orange wire is used to 'sense' if the cabin blower is on.  Primarily this is used to stop the compressor from running if the blower is switched off.  This prevents the evaporator from freezing due to lack of airflow.  Simple enough....

There are, however, many different cabin blower fans ( e.g. fixed speed, multiple speed, variable speed etc).   Additionally, some blower motors are wired as 'high side switching' and some as 'low side switching'

High Side Switching

In a high side switching system the motor negative is connected to chassis and 12V is applied to the motor positive through a switch.

The orange wire should be connected to the positive side of the motor and the ECU needs to be set to detect a voltage threshold above a certain voltage to mean 'ON'.  This is done using the BLV command in the ECU and the usual recommendation is anything above 4V should mean 'ON'.  This allows for blowers with resistor packs where the slow speed usually runs about 6 volts. 

To enter this setting in the ECU, type

BLV=4 <enter>

e.g Blower Voltage > 4V means ON.

Low Side Switching

In a low side switching system the motor positive is connected to 12V.  Motor negative is connected to ground through a switch.

The orange wire should be connected to the negative side of the motor and the ECU needs to be set to detect a voltage threshold below a certain voltage to mean 'ON'.  This is done using the BLV command in the ECU and the usual recommendation is anything below 9V should mean 'ON'.  Note that on a low side blower the voltage will reduce closer to 0V as the blower speed increases

To enter this setting in the ECU, type

BLV=-9 <enter>

(note minus sign)

e.g Blower Voltage < 9V means ON.

You can check the blower voltage in real time using the DIAG facility in the ECU to test your actual voltages and set accordingly.  

Automatic Compressor On with Blower

Some simply installs want to minimise the amount of controls.  

After the above thresholds have been set, you can also enable another mode If you want the compressor to start automatically when the blower is switched on.  Change the input button mode (BUT) to blower operation.   

I have a replika that needs some cool air. I was talking to an auto shop here and they recommended installing a proper system, but I am unsure. Apparently, in a modern automobile, the A/C system will use around 4 horsepower (3.0 kW) of the engine's power, thus increasing fuel consumption of the vehicle. If you consider an electric system that runs on 12V, this would roughly be equal to 250 amps. This unit which is purely electric uses less than 1 horsepower – therefore also only ¼ of the cooling power. Is that correct or am I missing something? I mean surely your system works right?

Attached an image of the engine bay. The red circle indicates the space where I can mount a traditional compressor, or the electric kit that you offer. There is also enough space for a larger electric alternator. That can be accessed really easily.

I really want to understand how this will all work here before continuing. Please let me know!

I already use Putty for another controller so I have the program already.

I plugged in the usb and shows up as com10 in device manager

I tried opening putty with the parameters in the manual and tried to flash a software update and enter putty through the update.  
 

The software update gave a connectivity error message in the DOS screen and putty gives a blank screen

i continuity tested the wiring at the end of the headphone jack. Two wires go to the middle pin, one to another pin, one to ground.  All of the different shaft separations on the plug have mega ohms between them.  

when I plug in the usb cable it flashes an led and then goes off.  It stays connected in the device manager.

Is there a diagram for the end of the headphone jack cable to make sure the wires and going to where they should be?

what else can I check?

It has been a while since I installed the AC for my 1990 964.

My center vent temperature was always at around 17-18 degree since the beginning.

Recently I tried to check if my evaporator was cold enough with a THERMAL IMAGE INFRARED thermometer from the cabin inlet flap under the dash.

Here was what I found, with OAT at around 30 degree, my evaporator temperature between 17-20 with the thermometer, wouldn't go lower than 17, at this point my ETC was set to -5.

Next day, I checked the temperature at idle with AC OFF, and hooked Putty to check the ETC reading compare with infrared thermometer.

Evaporator temperature was showing 3 degree and the evaporator with thermometer reading at 26 degree, around 23 degree of difference.

Then I change ETC value to -23 and went for test run.

OAT was about 24 degree, I can see ETC from putty reading kept going down to around -12 and doesn't go lower, then I pulled over to use thermometer to check the evaporator temperature with the reading of 12 degree, vent temperature went down to 9 degree.

The delta temperature is around 23-25 in my case between the installed evaporator temperature sensor and infrared temperature thermometer.

Is it something wrong with the evaporator sensor signal to the ECU?

Thanks

Parker

The current issue we are having is that the evaporator rarely gets below 22 deg C once the system is heatsoaked, even though the LP lines are ice cold. The LP pressure is also extremely high at 4 to 6 Bar. HP pressure is normal 10 to 11 bar.

We have tried replacing the the evaporator block and we have double check that everything is plumbed correctly. The ECU seems to be working as it should.

We are not really sure where to go from here, any advice would be appreciated.

Greetings from Germany

Daniel

John Hudson 

id love to install air conditioning into it as I’m planning on taking it abroad and in the warm weather it gets ridiculously hot even with all the windows down. 
I believe anything is possible but at what cost? I’m willing to spend up to 3k even though the cars not worth that but I’m not planning on selling it. 
can anyone point me in the right direction?

thank you 

Rich

Any help would be appreciated!  It is hot here.

Another Q: Is it even possible to have too much evaporator blower air flow?

I was wondering, if I could buy a single condenser full kit but instead of getting the blower I got the Evaporator that is 135x300x60. I want to get the kit, so I have all the parts needed for the conversion but would like to retain my factory evaporator housing and fresh air blower.

When i am running bright AC blue light is activated and will start blowing colder air, and then the unit starts blowing hot air for a few minutes and then will come back on, Blue light indicator does not change color.  Only happens when it’s hot outside but when outside temp in low 70’s does not do this. 

When I lift the hood i hear clicking from the compressor in the smugglers box.  Eventually the compressor and condenser fan kick on and it blows colder air again for a few minutes and then it shuts off and the clicking repeats.  

Any suggestions to keep my.back from sweating so much Ha ha 

Quote

The Electrocooler electric air conditioning system for Porsche 911 is a revolutionary update for the complicated A/C and ventilation setup fitted to Porsche 911 models from 1974 to 1989.  

Would it fit into a 1970 911 model? The car is LHD. I have seen cars that are 1974 - 1989 and the places where the AC parts are supposed to go look more or less the same to me.

Thanks,