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Just to update, I have uploaded a video of the noise to Youtube if this helps, thanks! https://youtube.com/shorts/rNHIQM5jR3g?feature=share

Hello all - I have a 1976 911S that the prior owner fitted with a Classic Retrofit A/C system (with upgraded alternator). I have noticed over the past few weeks that with the A/C running, every few minutes I will hear a grinding/buzzing sound from behind the center of the dash. This only occurs with the A/C compressor running after I hit the blue button - I can just run the fan with no issues whatsoever. However once I hit the button, every so often the noise will occur and will last 3-5 seconds, then go away. After a few minutes it will occur again. It almost sounds like one of the old metal pencil sharpeners that we would use in grade school where you insert the pencil on one end and spin the crank on the other (that is random but is the best explanation I can give for what it sounds like). I was wondering if this had happened to anyone else? Any advice would be much appreciated, thanks.

Hi Ray, continuity of the power wiring and a good earth would be first thing. The fans tend to be super reliable so for both to drop out suggests power or earth.

In my 1973 911, both fans to the condensers, which are mounted in the rear wheel well on the drivers side, are not working after several years. They both rotate freely. What are the things to check?

Thanks for running the diagnostics. It does look to be a faulty compressor so we have shipped a replacement unit to you.

Thanks Jonny, Managed to bypass the battery kill switch, doesn't help the situation. Also I connected the 12v to RED, ORAGNE and GREEN and ground to BLACK from the compressor connecter. It didn't start the compressor neither. Any advice? Thanks

Yes, it should be. You will need to use the 911 black coil. In the CDI+ software you can change the number of cylinders to 4. The CDI+ needs to know this so that the RPM calculation is correct for the rev limiter function.

The ECU is trying to start the compressor at 90% speed but it is not running (as current is 0). Try bypassing your battery isolator.

Hi Jonny, I had a system installed on my 1991 964 few months back. I have a batter isolator installed at the negative side of the battery. It was running fine till car was on the jack and battery was disconnected for few days. Firstly the compressor was running intermittently for short period of time and not running at all. .Doesn't responding the CCU switch nor the PUTTY command line CMP=50 or CMP=100 I have deleted the contractor as per service bulletin. Also I did check the 3 separate voltage from ECU side connector. Trigger did responding to the CMP=50 or 100 and reading 6.15V or 12.8V. I have attached a picture of the status from PUTTY. I can see the compressor current is reading zero but the compressor speed is showing 090. Any idea what will my cause? Thanks Parker

Electrocooler is controlled by a single momentary push button with a blue LED ring light. It is important to understand that the LED shows the status of the SYSTEM, it is not electrically connected to the push button, but controlled by the ECU. Other conditions may prevent the light from illuminating. I made this short video to demonstrate some of the functions. If the blue led does not illuminate at all, refer to our install manual and check the following: 1) You have power to pin 7 of the grey ECU harness. This is the yellow/black wire. At least one ground on the black connector should be connected to chassis. 2) The red and black of the button harness should be connected to 12V and GND. The black wire is the GND for the LED. The yellow/brown wire uses PWM (square wave) to light the LED.

I mounted a classic retrofit ignition in my 911 3.0cs an gained about 13 hp. I have a 356 sc, is I possible to mount at classic retrofit ignition to that engine. Best regards kasper

With ever-more classic cars being converted to electric vehicles, we are constantly faced with requests for installations in a wide range of vehicles. A good example is the early Ford Mustang, an EV conversion of which we have recently been working on with the highly regarded Alan Mann Racing. At first glance, the Mustang would appear to have plenty of space to work with, but to construct something that works with the original mount points and that can provide heating as well as cooling is more complex. In such cases, our work on designing that hardware is completely bespoke. We design products specific to the application and not the generic blower box kit that may be seen elsewhere. The Mustang solution was designed from scratch and is all custom made. It's got two of our ceramic heater blocks and custom made actuators that control the air flow. Controlling the custom airbox is the real challenge and it has led us to a modular software design. As everything on our new HVAC controller is configurable, we have settings that can be adjusted to whatever the controller is being connected to, and we can save these arrays as different configurations. This development path is leading us toward a range plug-and-play systems in custom outer shells depending on the vehicle. We're currently developing bespoke systems for vehicles including the SWB Ferrari, BMW E30, Alfa Romeo Type 105 and Land Rover Defender with various UK partners. We are always interested in hearing from commercial partners with specific needs for production vehicles. Give us a call to discuss.

We've developed tweeter pods to allow fitment of the focal TN43 tweeters to the standard 993 door cards. This is a cool upgrade for anyone who likes good sounds in their 993 😎 These pods have been designed to replace the Nokia tweeters in the Porsche 993. They fit the metal receiver in the 993 door cards with no modification. The kit includes 2 high-quality pods with clips and we are shipping as of now!

We've been enjoying our 1994 Porsche 993 Carrera 2 Tiptronic Coupe since purchase last August. Work on the pre-VarioRam 911 has included an overdue service, a front end strip and rebuild and of course we're using the 993 as a development vehicle and test mule for our next-generation Porsche electric air conditioning systems. As this car was never fitted with air conditioning, we've fitted our full Porsche 911 electric A/C system including our high-output Porsche 993 alternator. This is a harder installation on a Tiptronic as it has an additional transmission oil cooler up front so a second condenser is not possible. Instead, we're trialling a new-tech version of our single condenser setup. Made by a Dutch company, the new condenser is 50% more efficient than the original 964/993 condenser, which is a big improvement. While we have been using twin condenser systems which give massive headroom over the original, a 50% improvement on the original part is more than enough for most users, especially when combined with our new CCU, which is also in testing in our 993: more on that later. Other improvements seen on the test mule include the development of a tightly-packaged combined battery and A/C Compressor mount to minimise the space required by our electric A/C system: watch out for this as a new product. One more product developed for the car is a replacement tweeter mount to fit Focal FN43 tweeters into the Porsche 993 door cards. This is a great little upgrade for audiophiles and is available to buy now. Recent road trips to Retromobile in Paris and visits to several UK consultancy clients have proved that, almost 30 years after its introduction, the 993 remains a highly capable and comfortable daily driver. The Tiptronic is relaxing, the car can still get a shift on when needed. We look forward to sharing more news on the car and our 964 and 993 developments!

Bonjour Sebastien, The headlamp relays are all covered in the manual on page 15 'Removal of an existing headlamp relay kit'. It sounds like you have got everything correct. The power for the white and yellow will come from the fuse board/relays assuming everything is wired up right. Check the manual before you commit and let us know if any problems.

Bonjour Sebastien, Yes, you can use any bridged terminal. This is covered in the install manual - bridging on our fuse panel is marked by white stripes.

For a 911fpr retrofit fuse Buy cutting the old relay wires (remove the relay) the only two wire left are the white and yellow from the headlight switch and you got to put them in the 1 and 3 fuse of the right panel. The olds relays were powered directly by thé battery and use to deliver power to the number 1 and 3 fuse (panel right). With this modification there is not power anymore to the 1 and 3……..does the power come from a source « inside » the fuse bar ? thanks sorry picture diagram is in french J jaune =y yelloy. B blanc= white

Hi, my old fuse panel had 2 upper terminal for one fuse so 4 wires Could fit in those 2 holes (2 wires per hole). I’ts impossible to put the 4 wire in a single hole terminal of the new retrofit fuse bar. So my question is : when an internal bridge is present on the upper panel between 2 or more fuse terminal ( like the fuse #4-5-6) can the upper wires can be put on any bridged terminal ? thanks !

Thank you!

Hi there and thanks for the question. The answer is anything is possible depending on the quality of the engineering. Given the car you are already building, we presume you will work it out properly! WOSP alternators may be a useful source of information in terms of applications. Good luck with your project and thanks for including our products.

New guy here and sadly I don’t have a Porsche! But I do have a Karman Ghia that I’m building over the next year or two! I am interested in a high amp alternator as I’m interested in running a Classic Retrofit electric ac including the blower unit. I’m going to use an electric heater as well. I’m building a 2.7 L Type 4 engine based on the LN Engineering kit with a Jake Rabey DTM cooling shroud. Yeah I know it’s not a Porsche but I am going to build it. I saw an ac compressor bolted to the same type of engine and shroud. Can an alternator be mounted with a bracket next to the standard alternator using a serpentine belt or even a standard v-belt rather than hooked onto the alternator as is done with the Irish Green Porsche? Thanks for any input here!

We have had occasional issues with the crimp sockets inside the ecu socket not gripping the pin, resulting in an intermittent connection of compressor drive. A simple test is to see whether the socket will grip the leg of a standard resistor. Push the resistor leg into each socket and it should grip it - if it falls out easily then this could lead to odd behaviour like compressor stopping 'at random' or not starting. Unfortunately it is not easy to fix the crimp socket receptacle. We have raised this issue with our wiring contractor and it may be due to a batch error with the crimp. Our suggested workaround is to add some solder to the mating pin (compressor side) to make the pin a bit fatter. If you still have issues then the plug and socket can be replaced with an alternative ( such as Deutsch DTM series ) Wire colours connections from ECU to Compressor: RED --> RED BLUE --> BLACK YELLOW --> ORANGE GREEN --> GREEN

If you have installed a system but cannot get the compressor to start, this is how to diagnose. Firstly, use the 'putty' software so you can access the test features of the ECU. You can get the latest Electrocooler software here. Test Steps: 1. After extracting the zip files to you computer, start the Electrocooler software by double clicking RunMe in the top level Electrocooler folder 2. The following screen appears. You may be prompted to plug (or replug) in the USB cable diagnostic cable. The 'Status' line should say Ready on COMX ( X can be any number ). If it does not, check your Windows Device Manager and resolve any driver issues. Sometimes swapping to a different USB port can fix this. 3. Plug the 3.5mm jack into the Electrocooler ECU and press 'Start Terminal', Switch the car ignition on. A black screen appears with scrolling numbers. (Have a look at our Setup and Test manual for more info on the numbers but you don't need that info for this test). Press return a couple of times to stop the numbers scrolling and get the > prompt. Now type CMP=50 and press return. if you mess up the typing, press return again and type the command again(backspace isn't supported by the ECU). The ECU responds CMP:OK (it will respond UNK for unknown if you mistyped) The main contactor relay will click and the compressor should start. Wait at least 30 seconds - some compressors have 30 second restart delay. Reasons for non start: 1) The main power feed is less than 11.0V - the compressor has under voltage protection. The 12V power feed is from the thick red wires that go through the large contactor relay. It is important to look at this voltage when the compressor tries to start - is the voltage dropping? Start the engine to be sure that the voltage doesn't 'sag'. 2) Faulty or worn contactor. The contactor is a service item - it will wear eventually but should have a service life of 5 years but this depends on use. If you suspect a contactor fault, connect the compressor directly to the battery by joining the two cables together. We have also seen some issues with cheap battery isolators not being able to provide the power required by the compressor. In this case the compressor may try to start and shut off immediately. 3) Power / signals not present. This is how to test the signals that drive the compressor: Find and unplug the the compressor control cable from the ECU On the ECU side, the signals are: BLUE - GND RED - 12V YELLOW - ENABLE GREEN - SPEED/DUTY Enter the command CMP=50 to enable the contactor relay and activate the signal lines. Using a multmeter, check the following pins. For these checks the -ve multimeter should always be on GND (Blue) Check POWER: Should measure Battery Voltage (~12V) between RED and BLUE. If there is no voltage here then check the main harness yellow and yellow/black wires for 12V. Check ENABLE: Should measure Battery Voltage (~12V) between YELLOW and BLUE. Note: Early ECUs used a 5V signal - in some cases we found this was not enough voltage to start the compressor. If you have a 5V enable and have a starting issue you can permanently wire the compressor enable wire (orange on the compressor connector) to 12V as a work around. This will not affect the operation of the system. Check SPEED/DUTY: With a duty cycle of 50% (CMP=50) should measure ~6V between GREEN and BLUE Alternatively to check SPEED/DUTY, if your meter has a Frequency function (Hz), you should measure ~400Hz between GREEN and BLUE An oscilloscope can also be used to verify the speed/duty signal (again, between GREEN and BLUE). ~400Hz with amplitude ~12V. Notes on compressors and their firmware We use two types of compressors. Both work with our system in normal operation but the firmware inside these units does change which can affect the testing. We used to advise a hardwired compressor test where BLACK was grounded and RED, GREEN and ORANGE could be connected to 12V to force the compressor ON. However, this test no longer works for recent compressors as the internal firmware has changed (nothing to do with the firmware in our ECU). We now use two suppliers for compressors. when contacting us for support, please say which type you have: PUSONG At the time of writing the Pusong compressor does not have the 30 second restart delay, so should start immediately from a CMP=50 command. BENLING At the time of writing the Beling compressor does not have the 30 second restart delay, so should start immediately from a CMP=50 command. Earlier Benling compressors do have the 30 second restart delay timer.

HI All, After a period of running, some users experience electric compressor switch off even if the snowflake button is still pressed. This is due to additional logic in the Porsche CCU that used to turn the mechanical compressor off when the temperature fell below a certain threshold. This is not desirable behaviour with the electric compressor as it is speed regulated by our ECU and is meant to remain running. To fix this behaviour, the CCU can be 'fooled' by biasing the evaporator temperature sensor. This is done by putting a 47k resistor in parallel / across the evaporator sensor. 1) Pull the sensor out of the air box. It is located just to the left of the expansion block. 2) Trim back the insulation and solder the resistor across the 2 wires. Tape and insulate. Resistors is a standard 1/2w 47k 'through hole' type. Resistor available here: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/through-hole-resistors/7078369

Hi Michael, sorry for the late reply on this. There is some good information on coil testing here. Due to poor product quality and aftersales support, we no longer recommend coils from this supplier, but the testing procedure outlined is on point.