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  2. Hello everyone -- I've just bought an '81 Canadian-spec RoW and am in the midst of importing it to the United States. Its original compressor was removed and is coming in a box. As I understand it all the other components are still in their original locations, but the details may yet reveal further omissions. The car is a driver, it has ~87k miles on it. At any rate because I live in a part of the country with hot, often humid summers, A/C (and defrost, in wet weather) is a must for me. I have read the various threads here and on Pelican Parts that I can find, and have taken note i
  3. We have a few customers who run CDI+ from other ECUs. Essentially, leave the CDI+ with a flat curve as shipped. IIRC the Megasquirt takes the CDI RPM output (TD tacho drive pin) as an input. As you state, the tacho sweep on ignition can cause a false injection of fuel. You can switch off the tacho sweep using our software. Select the CDI+ menu, Adjust Config then untick 'Tacho sweep on Start'.
  4. Earlier
  5. I'm planning a megasquirt install and ditching my CIS. Once the megasquirt is installed, I plan on using the distributor and vac advance with the CDI+ in default mode so I can tune the fuel system. Once it's tuned, I'll lock the dizzy and program the CDI+. Has anyone tried this before? Anything to be concerned about? Will the tach sweep from the CDI+ interfere with the megasquirt at ignition?
  6. I have a 1977 2.7S that I rebuilt the engine on a couple of years ago. 964 spec Camshafts, J&E Pistons and it‘s measured at 9:6:1 Compression ratio. Due to this I always expected it to be slightly lumpy at tick over and it generally smoothed out further up the rev range. However, I have never been completely satisfied and have always felt like i had missed something or there was a small issue. Anyway, I had a couple of hours spare so I got my new delivery from Classic Retrofit out of the box. As per the instructions, the car was up to temp and I had confirmed that the timing was corre
  7. Hi. I’m on the last of the wiring before sending it to the mechanic on Monday to test the system, then gas it up and switch her on. My (hopefully) last question is what to do with the wires that would have normally connected to the contactor relay if you don’t install that relay? Do I need to connect the gray wire that comes off the Grey ECU loom and the small black ground wire that is on the small loom labeled as ‘5’ on the wiring diagram? Cheers, Stu
  8. The bussing changes over the years but 1&2 is a new one on me. On later cars, all three are bussed and a wire link is required. Your observation is correct, there is no ground for the LEDs. The LEDs will only illuminate if the the accessory in question is 'on' and the fuse is blown (or removed). This is normal operation for these type of 'fuse blown' indicators. This is actually more useful since you can use the LED to establish whether the feed upstream of the fuse is working, simply by removing the fuse and checking the LED.
  9. I've just finished installing the rear fuse panel in my 1970 911T (I'll tackle the front soon). One thing I noted is that the order of the line wires had to be flipped (ie I had to move 3->1 and 1->3) in order for the bussed line connections to be correct - ie 1&2 are bussed on the original panel, but 2&3 on your panel. Obviously also had to flip the load wires to match. Not a big deal, but easy to miss if you aren't paying attention. Car started up fine and all seemed well. Yay! One question - I note there's no grounding of the rear fuse panel, so interested in understandin
  10. We've added two new high-output 175A alternators to our product range, for the Ferrari 308 and Porsche 964 and 993 models. Like all of our upgraded alternators, these are brand new units, not rewound or reconditioned and there is no core charge or exchange, so you can sell your old unit complete and recoup some of your upgrade investment. With so many electrical upgrades pushing old-school charging technology to the limit, Classic Retrofit's upgraded high-output alternators for classic cars like the Ferrari and Porsche 911 are the perfect addition to any modern classic. Used in
  11. Hi Jonathan - thanks for the feedback! Enjoy the 'new' car 😀
  12. I installed the CDI+ on my 1982 911SC this afternoon. Just pulled out the old one and plugged in the new one without any curve tweaking... MY GOODNESS!! This is a new car entirely! I used to get a lot of hesitation in second when cold. That's gone entirely. In fact, the engine just feels buttery smooth at low revs even when cold. The torque curve feels much more consistent and once warm thrashing the car around in third is just bliss. The rev needle sweep on ignition just made me chuckle the first time and I know it will make me smile every time I turn the key. This is the best upgrade an
  13. We've added two great new products for classic Porsche 911s using our electric air conditioning. The first is a rotating underdash vent assembly. Sold in pairs, these ducts are a great addition to the ventilation system on your 911. They allow directional control of cool air to your body but still allow hot air to go to your feet. Each duct can be rotated so you can divert passenger side cooling to the driver side for increased comfort. The vents can be used with the standard ventilation system or with our Electrocooler electric A/C system. To install, simply remove the original und
  14. You can do this but we recommend dual condensers on all AC installs now. Definitely in Tx!
  15. I live in Austin, Tx and I am considering dual condensers. After reading I was wondering it I should try just one condenser at first. Is it feasible to add a second one later?
  16. It's a common misconception that the tachos are 'driven' from a voltage signal. The opposite is true, the tacho input pin is pulled up to a voltage and the points or the CDI box GROUNDs it to create the square wave input. For this reason, the voltage observed depends on the tacho end, not the CDI or points end. It kind of depends on the tacho and the electronics inside it. 8v is fairly common. I would check your alternator/battery voltage as tacho weirdness can indicate a faulty voltage regulator.
  17. On a full kit, there would be no reason to retain the original AC fan control as there is no longer a separate fan for AC. Our AC unit integrates Ac and fresh air into a single blower. As per the above, there is no temperature control because the system works to achieve a pre programmed cabin temperature of 21 deg C. You can change this when setting up. On.a half kit, the original evaporator blower is retained and you can retain the AC blower speed knob. The temperature knob would have no function for the same reason as above.
  18. Our ECU does all the work to keep cabin temp constant and there is therefore no control interface in the current system. We do have a control panel optional upgrade coming but there is no way to use any of the original Porsche controls with our digital system.
  19. Hello, I have been driving my tachometer off the distributor in my 1974 911 with a 3-pin CDI+. My tach started to act up with some minor bouncing the other day. I decided to check the points trigger signal to the CDI+ with my Picoscope and noticed it has an 8v square wave signal to the box and tach. Is this the normal signal for a 3-pin CDI+? I always thought the later tachs need an 11+ volt signal. Any input would be helpful!
  20. I've got an '84 911 American Spec Carrera that came with 'factory' A/C. I'm finally ready to take the plunge and replace the original A/C and definitely thinking of Classic's electric system. One thing I would like to do different is I would like to retain the original built in fan control and temperature control of the existing system. Has anybody else ever done this? Any reason why wiring to that instead of the single kit on/off button wouldn't work?
  21. Hi Ovidijus Thanks for fitting the panels and the positive feedback. Round relay testing has been perfect so it appears they are ready to go. We have a new starter this week and R&D support is in his job description, so will get these and some other new ideas signed off and move to production. Expect them in 2021 👍🏻
  22. Hi, Johnny, Just installed your fuse panels, very happy with those. Any ETA now on the round relay replacements coming on sale? Ovidijus
  23. Bonjour Alexandre! We're not engine or timing experts, so offer only the advice contained in the manual. As you have found, there is some feedback from other enthusiasts online and I am sure Jonny will be along to share his experience with his SC shortly. There is no real substitue for a run on a chassis dyno, where one could check what the car is doing under load and optimise the settings that way. Take it step by step, whatever you do.
  24. Hi all, I've just bought a CDI+ for my Porsche 3.0 SC EURO 180 HP from 1979 with low compression (8.5). For your information, I use only RON 98 gas. Now I would like to lock the distributor and run a full ignition map with CDI+, and so that optimize the ignition of my engine. I've got on Internet some personalized advance curves for 3.0 SC that people set up in their CDI+ but there are none applicable to my setup: Porsche 3.0 SC EURO 180 HP from 1979 full stock. Indeed advance curves I found are for SC 204 HP or 188 HP, or upgrades with SSI, 964 camshaft and PMO. So could
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