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  2. @Jonny Retrofit Worked on the fuel system sensors today and found a loose connection in the CSV circuit. It happened to start getting a bit cooler here around the same time I started all this work, so I think this may have been a coincidence. Fixed it and it fired back up! Back to a running vehicle with a much improved ignition system. I also have your fuse kit on the way, should have a functionally modern classic car soon enough. Appreciate all of your suggestions.
  3. @Jonny Retrofit Checked status during cranking and got a flashing green LED. Attached a plug to the center lead from the distributor and got a pretty healthy spark on crank. It was for sure brighter than the spark I got with my older CDI, so I think the ignition system to the coil is working. I'm going to check the individual cylinders with a timing light tomorrow to verify each of them is getting a firing signal from the distributor. From there I'm thinking it could be a fueling issue.
  4. @Mothy yes, this has come up in discussions a few times. I think the issue might be 'tuning' the knock sensor to the 911 engine and finding a suitable place to install the sensor without having to drill the heads to carry the 964 system. The knock sensor itself does not provide a simple knock / no knock signal. There is electronics involved for the signal conditioning and setting up to the cylinder size etc.
  5. Black Bosch Coil: Resistance between terminal A and 1 with CDI+ disconnected: 0.6 Ohms Resistance between terminal A and center: 690 Ohms Resistance between terminal 1 and center: 690 Ohms I can't test the cranking visual behavior without my assistant being home. I did check when I turn the key on, the green light turns on for about a second. As soon as she gets home, I'll do a spark test and check for flashing on the CDI+ box. I guess the good news if both of those come back as acting as normal, then I have a functioning ignition system. One step clos
  6. Green LED on top of CDI+ unit should: 1) light up bright for 1 second when ignition turned on 2) flash when cranking.
  7. Next test is remove coil king lead, insert spare spark plug directly into coil top. Ground plug thread with a clip or a jump lead to ground. Crank. Spark?
  8. Tacho sweep on ignition is good - a feature. What coil are you running? And what is the resistance across the two terminals (ignition off, box disconnected)?
  9. @Jonny Retrofit Checked both items mentioned and got ~580 Ohms between pins 7 and 31d. Wiggled the green wire and didn't see any changes. TD is not shorted to ground. With the ignition on got battery voltage ~12V across pins 15 and A. Installed the CDI+ unit and gave it a crank. Still not firing. The tacho does a sweep from 0 to 7k RPM to 0 on key on. When I turn the key it goes to 1-2 kRPM sorta of erratically. Turn it off, turn it back on and basically same behavior. I'm assuming (hoping) that the CDI+ should be fine. But I'm not sure what else to chase down he
  10. Earlier
  11. @gtgrad CDI 6 pin connections are as follows looking at the PLUG** on the harness with it's two keyway 'ears' at the top A top left: COIL 'A' 15 top middle: 12V 7 top right: Distributor Signal + 31/1 bottom left: COIL '1' (-) TD bottom middle: Tacho Drive 31d bottom right: Distributor Signal - **Note: The sticker on the side of the CDI case shows the CDI SOCKET connections on the unit as you look into the connector. Basic checks CDI box disconnected. At CDI plug on loom with ignition OFF: Check resistance between pins 7 and 31d. Sh
  12. Should have added. This is a 1978 3.0 motor in a 1976 911S chassis. 6-pin CDI with part number 0.227.300.004.
  13. Hello, I recently had my car run into a no-start issue after changing some dash lights. Whilst changing the dash lights, I created a power-ground short at the speedo. I'm worried this somehow or another created a short back to the CDI via the TD pin from the Tach. Not sure what is possible other than I know the car was working fine before the dash light mishap and is not after. I pulled the old CDI and found that D1 on the internal circuit was a short circuit, not behaving as a diode should. Additionally checked the spark and it was very weak. The CDI had a HV whine, so I don't think
  14. It's been a busy summer here at the Classic Retrofit workshops, but we've still found time to push the envelope on developing new products for classic Porsches! Work on our Delphi Green 1982 Porsche 911 SC has included: • Developing and testing our new hand-wound ignition coils (game changer: coming Q1 2021) • Developing a second air conditioning condenser kit for the right front corner (now available to buy) • Further developing our Electric A/C system • Relocating the oil cooler from the right front to the left rear corner • Fitting a new thermostat and a whole new set of o
  15. OK - here goes for the CDI Knock sensor input to detect knock and retard as necessary. If it detected a knock, it could simply retard the spark via the overlay by a degree (repeat in degrees till knock goes away) and that retard override remains until the ignition is turned off. If it could also provide some form of visual warning that the override was activated via the shift light even better. More about tuning aid and engine preservation - but a full on knock sensor system would be a step even better. Tim
  16. Hi Peter Bouncing tach needle is often a sign of a failing voltage regulator so check that out. We've tried all sorts of coils with our CDI+ and the original is currently the best. So you might find that old black coil and refit it. Silver coils are not good. I could tell you a few stories about aftermarket vendors but let's just say the only way forward for us was to make our own unit, which we have done. The good news is that we have several brand new Classic Retrofit prototype coils in test with engine builders in the UK and US and we are also running a prototype coil on our
  17. Hi, I have old CDI unit and my RPM needle is bouncy at idle and more bouncy at speed/movement... I suspect the CDI unit as it's old, but my attention is also to the coil. When I bought the car it had a black BOSCH coil worked fine, but wanted to replace it with anew on. So bought a Sliver BOSCH from rosepassion. This was 1,5years ago. After a drive 300km the RPM needle started to act funny / bouncy. Got home. Next it was fine again, but start to bouncy some days later and now it's not stopping. Car feels tired.... So my question. Which coil is the best with this CDI+ unit. I w
  18. We always recommend replacing the original factory evaporator when one of our Porsche 911 electric air conditioning half kits is fitted. Here's why!
  19. Been a mad year, so not as much R&D time as we'd hoped for, but they have been bulletproof so far. Fingers crossed 😉
  20. the round relay replacements sound VERY interesting ... hope they come out soon(ish)
  21. Very interesting - and informative. Funny enough, I too have a 1974 Targa - and will order the CDI+ very soon (my wife has generously 'forced' me to order it as my X-mas present). I have an idle issue that I believe may be related to the Distributor advance. Using the CDI+ it may (or may not) fix this, if I disable the mechanical advance. And I cant wait to enjoy all the other benefits and adjustments! P.S. getting the Fusebox(es) as well - Go Combo Deal :)
  22. Hundreds of Classic Retrofit CDI+ ignition units are now being used on Porsche 911s all over the world. One recent adopter is Jonny in Minneapolis, who has fitted a CDI+ unit to his 1978 Porsche 911 SC MFI backdate project. Jonny recently started driving his car, breaking in the engine, transmission and suspension upgrades. After the engine was run in, Jonny noted that, at 7,000 rpm the car seem to hit a soft rev limiter. Jonny Hart replied in the project build thread on Pelican, confirming that the stock (soft) rev limiter on CDI+ was set to 7,000 rpm. This takes out 10° in advance
  23. Looks that way if you have a JB distributor but check the spec sheet.
  24. Thank You, So i guess i´m going to need two 6pin boxes then?
  25. General Info: 3 Pin. Designed for use with 'points'. Used on all road going 911 cars from '69 up to and including Carrera 3.0 6 Pin. Uses a 'variable reluctor' (VR) pickup, sometimes referred to as a 'magnetic pickup'. Fitted to all Turbo cars and SC. 8 Pin boxes are also VR. 3 and 6 Pin units are NOT interchangeable as the input circuit is different. Twin plug: It depends on distributor choice. Most of the aftermarket twin plug distributors (including the JB Racing one) use a VR pickup - the actual pickup sensor part is usually made by MSD or Mallory. So in t
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