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  2. We have just added a fittings pack to the website for the Porsche ‘belly pan’ condenser. The hose for second condensers is #6. https://www.classicretrofit.com/collections/electric-air-conditioning/products/porsche-911-belly-pan-condenser-fittings
  3. Yes, correct. The unit as shipped is plug and play compatible with the Bosch unit.
  4. This was a headscratcher as the owner did not want to touch the engine, so we custom engineered this setup using a WOSP alternator. It's not super aesthetic and took quite a bit of working out at additional cost but it did the trick. It involves a coupler from a VW T5 with some machining. We are working on a possible kit for this - on the list of things to do. upgraded porsche 912 alternator.mp4
  5. I own a 911 that has your system and I love it. However I also own several VW Karmann Ghias in which I intend to install A/C. I would like to use the Classic Retrofit A/C system in my VWs but the amperage on the most powerful alternator is 95 and I heard they aren't very good. Having seen the Irish Green Porsche 912 installation, I wonder if you are using the 95 amp alternator or if you have upgraded it beyond that? You say in the description that you did upgrade it but I don't see that alternator as one of your options. Please help & thanks!
  6. Just ordered a CDI+ unit, but the car is not running. I suspect (hope) that my CDI is bad, was running well recently. The instructions say check timing first, but obviously I can't without the engine running. Any special instruction for this situation? I'm assuming that this product is actually 'plug and play' as advertised, and if the problem is indeed a bad CDI, I should be able to just mount it and plug in the 6 pin plug, without having to connect to a laptop... correct? Any other advice? I'm a DYI guy, but new to these CDI systems. thanks in advance. mitch
  7. Hi C Currently we do not offer a small fuse panel for SWBs, but thanks for the interest and the kind comments.
  8. Hello! Love the blade retrofit fuses. Can these be used for an earlier car? I have a 1967. Please advise. regards, C
  9. That sounds like a typical early fuel injection issue. I would research how to setup / check the CIS.
  10. Hi again Finally, I managed to get the timing sorted out. The timing was so far off that I got fooled and didn't adjust the timing enough the first time. So now the car runs very well on idle and under acceleration. However upon deceleration and cruising on low engine load the car is very jerky, like jerking back and forth. I think it is a weird behavior. Do any of you guys have a good suggestion what might be the problem? Very thankful for any advice! In the process with sorting the timing, I checked the timing of TDC, took the distributor apart and cleaned and checked it, new coil and checked the cables.
  11. Hi Even, could be a lot of things - Jonny suggests it sounds more like a cracked airbox or a coil failure. Can you do a simple spark check? If there is still a strong spark when cranked then check your airbox. A failed coil might spark in air but the spark would look weedy.
  12. Hi I recently bought a CDI+ 3 point. The car is 1974 911 2.7. After installation of the CDI+, the car ran well for a couple of hours before it started misfiring. Upon trying to start it again, it would not start again. I am suspecting there are some problems with the springs/curve in the distributor. So I would like to try to lock the distributor. What is the best method for achiving this? Also would you advice installing "electronic" points like Pertronix, and if so what are the advantages of this? Thanks for any advice! Best regards, Even
  13. Thanks. Haven’t had any issues caused by the second spark using that kind of timing light. The sparks are so close together, the light can’t ‘see’ them. If the light has an RPM feature and that is reading correctly, then the second spark is not the issue. What is more likely is that the timing scatter is upsetting your view of the reading. This occurs because the engine has no load so the box tries to compensate timing every ignition cycle. When you are on the road this doesn’t occur.
  14. Thanks for the post. We can only really comment on our own system installed as per the manual, as its efficacy is only guaranteed in the standard configuration. But you may well find someone on PP who has done what you are trying to do. Good luck!
  15. Hello, I recently discovered the advance curve on my distributor was completely off due to some aftermarket springs. To make my testing / diagnosis easier I swapped out my CDI+ box for the original Bosch unit in order to use the dial-back feature of my timing light to accurately map the curve in situ. Is there any way to adjust the CDI+ box to either eliminate the second spark or make it work with a dial back light? I just got my distributor back from a rebuilder and want to confirm the curve. It would be nice to not have to swap between boxes. The CDI+ box was so nice to use during troubleshooting. I was getting small exhaust after fires in the midrange at light throttle and I've chased my tail replacing every fuel and ignition component. I finally realized my distributor was giving full advance (32*+) by 2500 RPM. After using a dial-back timing light to plot my curve throughout the entire range, I was able to create an overlay to pull out timing in all the right places to basically bring it back into spec. All the exhaust after fires disappeared and it finally ran the way it should. I'm so glad I invested in the CDI+ box!
  16. Hello- Like a lot of posts I am seeing, I would like to add a Porsche or similar (Griffiths Kuel) front condenser inline with the Classic Retrofit full (single condenser) AC system (in the factory original center front bumper location). With all the reading I am doing I gathered I will need to add refrigerant lines from the classic retrofit condenser to the front condenser. What are the new fittings and hose that I will need? The classic retrofit manual says that the #8 hose is routed between the compressor and condenser so should that also be used between two condensers? Are the connectors the same as those used on the drier? I saw the writeup by Targa80 but would like some input from Classic Retrofit as I would like to get new connectors rather than cutting out and reusing my old fittings (history of my car and AC system is unknown and suspect). I am also beginning the search and learning process on how the electrical connections should be run from the stock condenser fan into the Classic Retrofit system. Are there lessons learned, again I am studying and trying to understand Targa80's posts on Pelican. Thanks! V/R Gary
  17. Ah ok, never heard of that. Was worried when there was nothing special mentioned in the documentation as well. Thanks for the quick response.
  18. ^ Yes, you can change the ECU ‘button mode’ to make the AC start when the blower is activated. The Porsche evaporator fan is high side switching so you also need to change the blower sense voltage to > 4v. Wiring is documented in Install manual. ECU commands are in the Setup and Test Manual.
  19. Some cars use an electronic dim/dip device that is incompatible with a relay causing it to ‘chatter’ (buzz). This is used to provide a low voltage to the dipped beam as a substitute for a parking or ‘side’ light. We provide fuse 4 as a non-relayed path to the dipped headlight for this reason. Just wire the panel as per original and it will work. You don’t need to add any bridges or wires between terminals. You will be connecting to terminals 1 and 3 only - the bridging for both L and R headlight is done internally by the panel on the output side after the relay.
  20. Finally getting around to installing my issue 1.0 fuse panel into my 70T. Question re fuse 4 for headlights. On the original panel 3 and 4 on the smaller (8 fuse) panel are bussed. On the CR unit they aren’t. However input 4 (T9 on PCB) is connected to both the fuse leg AND the output of the relay. How can that be? Inputs 3, 1 and 2 don’t connect to the fuse leg and go only to the respective relay. Inputs 1 and 2 are bussed together same as the original. So I’m not sure how to fix this? Thoughts?
  21. On a related note, I also have an 84 911, and bought the half kit. I already installed the push button. Although page 56 says you can omit the button, I already installed it. Can I wire it like it is noted on Appendix C?
  22. CardinalCar - I sent you a PM to have a local look at the kit installed.
  23. Yes, the contact relay is now standard with all kits.
  24. Oh yes, one other question, I didn't order the extra big isolation relay, couldn't tell whether it's now standard fit with the kit or not? It seems like it replaced the Big Red Post so perhaps it's for sale for earlier kit owners?
  25. Hi @classicretrofit Just to let you know, I've put my order in. Planning to re-use the existing front condenser on my car so please let me know about the required flare fittings, I did order an extra 5m of the smaller hose which is I trust sufficient. I'm working on sourcing a blower fan and housing for that front mount as it's missing from my car, but someone on Pelican said they had one so with any luck I'll get that sorted fairly soon. I've also started removing bits. I took the evaporator assembly out of the smuggler's box and will start extracting the fresh air blower and blend valves next. The hot air flex hose by the driver's left foot (LHD car) is also obviously leaking. Is there a trick to peeling back the footwell carpet? I will need to replace the duct there too I suspect. Lastly while my manual heat lever between the seats does appear to work correctly and be adjusted, the autoheat controller is inoperative for (at this point) unknown reasons. The clicky knob just spins freely, so it could just be a simple mechanical issue with the switch, but the servo may also be dead. Difficult to tell without getting it out on the bench. At any rate, I'm very excited, it will be quite a novelty to have real A/C and defrost in the car!
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