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Hi TB, Just closing out on this. I dug into the operation of the alternator and figured that the black connection was feedback from the external regulator. I was worried that I might fry the alternator if I did some incorrect connections. I also checked that the external regulator was disconnected, and it was. I put the green wire on the right connector and left the black wire off (insulated). And when I put the Alternator back in the charge light worked correctly. So I’m not sure what the guy who installed the alternator was thinking. Thank you for your guidance. Regards, James

Thanks Jonny, that means i have to remove the AC suitcase again just to test the sensor.😅😅😅 I was hope to minimize the work to solve the issue. Btw, what is the price if I order an additional temperature sensor harness from you with longer harness from you? Thanks and happy new year.

It cannot. Your clicking is most likely caused by the spoiler gearbox case splitting open, allowing the gear to ‘hop’ a tooth. You really can’t glue the old gearbox case back together, hence why we make this kit.

KBET is a correction constant used for linearisation of NTC thermistors. NTC thermistors are non linear, meaning that their resistance vs temperature graph is a curve. The standard ‘correction’ uses a formula which is coded into our software, leaving the beta value configurable so we can use different sensors. More info in the article below: https://product.tdk.com/system/files/dam/doc/product/sensor/ntc/ntc_element/general_tech_info/ntc_thermistor_general_technical_information_digest_en.pdf In the case of the evap sensor, place it in Ice water and adjust the KBET value up or down by increments of 10 until the temp reads 0 degrees. Note that you must type SAVE after changing KBET for the value to be remembered after power off.

I saw the post regarding a power feed for the Turbo fuel pump fuse position (position 16). In my 79 930, there are already two wires feeding into Terminal 17 (A-Side) and it seems to be a pretty tight fit, so I am unsure I can get the Connecting Rail installed. The other complicating factor is that the gap between the two terminals may be slightly wider than the Connecting Rail supplied from Porsche. Would you suggest pulling a power source from Terminal 15 instead? Appreciate your suggestions here. Thanks. Toby Pennycuff

Hello, Thanks for taking the time on answering me. Appreciate it! So i looked for a better mechanic that was familiar with P-cars and CIS overrall. We went back to basics, installed the old WUR that was working with the car when i got it, checked for vaccum leaks, tested the fuel pressure (still showing some issues with the Cold pressure with the old WUR) and basically the Dizzy was incorrectly installed and by moving a couple of tooths, cylinder 1 was not responding, basically death, so he re index the dizzy, checked the "hall effect sensor" and lubricated the dizzy and installed as neeeded (TDC on Z1) everything as per the manual, and the Car fired up and run as smooth as before... so the CDI+ WAS NOT THE ISSUE as the first mechanic stated it was how he setup the distributor. As an FYI, the hardware eas OK it was basically a mess up from the first mechanic. So the new mechanic, setup the car for me to test it for a couple of weeks (basically for christmas and new years eve time), so far so good, feels really good as before... as soon as he comes back from winter break, we are going to install fresh plugs, install the new WUR (check for pressures) , install the SSI´s, wideband sensor and will be starting to tune it a little bit and playing with the setup, timing and so. thanks again!

Thanks Jonny, Currently KBET is 3950 as default value. Can you explain more about this value? Do you have any related link to explain this? What is the KBET value suitable in my case?

Since the main task of the sensor is to prevent freeze, yes you can adjust the KBET value so that the sensor is accurate about the freeze point (0 deg C). Set the ETC value a couple of degrees higher.

Thanks What about if I don't replace the sensor and use the temperature reading difference as a constant to correct the reading for ECU? Thanks

May I ask: can the 993 air wing travel limits be adjusted? I have replaced the bearing but I occasionally get the dreaded clicking noise when the air wing closes. I appreciate your thoughts. L. Cunningham 1996 993 Carrera

You need a 10K. the four wire harness is for two sensors. The sensors are not polarised. You should see how they pair simply by looking at the plug.

Please follow this guide:

Hello thanks for the reply is there any email so i can contact you with further details and questions?

That would be the serial number

Label on the back

Hello Thanks for the reply, I’m a little bit stressed at the moment, and I’m trying to look as much as info possible how can I check the serial number?

The OPs unit had a manufacturing defect that we rectified some time ago. Unlikely that a recently built unit has the same. All units are soak tested before shipping. Pelican will probably just send a new unit but could you let us know the serial number of your suspected faulty unit?

Bottom line. Yes My own Giulia has a 123 Ignition. This is an ‘inductive’ ignition where the coil stores the charge for the spark. We recently added the CDI. A Capacitive Discharge Ignition stores charge in a capacitor and uses a different type of coil. This gives a more immediate and aggressive spark which is beneficial to engines that have limited fuel control (eg carbs). When we added CDI to the Giulia the difference was night and day. Easier to start, better throttle response and more mid range power.

The names of the profiles are not stored in the CDI+ box itself. The name ‘james’ must have been entered on the PC All boxes are sent out with the timing map disabled so should start with the same timing as the standard Bosch unit. In any case, the max adjustment that the physical distributor would need to run the most advance does not require you to re-index the distributor gear at all. If you are having to move by two teeth there is something fundamentally wrong with your engine timing. my advice is: 1) check that the fixed timing check box is checked in the software under ‘Adjust Config’. This will prevent any map from running - same as a standard Bosch unit 2) time the engine as per the workshop manual

Hello December 2024, purchased thru Pelican parts and I’m having the same issues as OP and I cannot my car work and looking at this post I might have a bad unit also already contacted pelican for this

Hello i installed my CDI+ but im not sure if it comes setup correctly from the factory since I installed and I cannot make my car run with the stock timing I have to move 2 full cogs to have it started. Also the CDI has a profile by the name of some guy, James or something is this ok? thanks Juan

Hi, I'm doing a comprehensive rebuild/upgrade on a 2l 73 Alfa GTV (Its a US spec 115 converted to Webers with very slight upgrade to the cams, otherwise stock). This also included conversation to a 123 electronic ignition. It's the 123 for the Alfa where you can use an app and modify the timing curve. Motors done and waiting for the car. It took some work to get is dialed in, including a custom curve. Now running nicely at least as tested in a shop car which is a Giulia sedan. We decided to hold off on any additional tuning until its back the GTV... Which is still waiting for the body repairs. I recently stumbled upon your write up on using the CDI on an Alfa... Sounds interesting but I'm not sure its really merited if I've already changed to the 123 electron ignition. I've not yet purchased a coil for the final built. Would it be beneficial to instal your CDI unit on top of the 123 conversion already completed? Recommendation on this and the coil would be most welcome. Thanks, Rich

Thanks Jonny, I have google NTC thermistor 3950, but few results with different resistance value like 100K. Does the resistance value matter in my case? Btw, I am not able to pull the sensor out of the suit case and test it. Might have to cut the sensor wire, how to wire new sensor from that 4 wires harness to temperature sensor? Thanks

That looks ok to me. Here's how to test:

Here's a short video of how to test the headlight relays on our fuse panel. 1) Connect a ground wire to the round gold plated terminals near the relays. 2) Connect a 12V feed (use a fuse!) to the 'H' terminal. 3) You need a test bulb - one end connected to 0V, the other as a flying lead. 4) A 12V flying lead. VIDEO-2024-12-11-10-17-36.mp4