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  2. As the UK has now left the European Union, the rules on VAT have changed. EU customers will now note that, when they go to checkout their purchases in our online shop, VAT will not be added to the total. Instead, VAT will be payable by the buyer at the point of import. The changes to VAT are explained in detail by the Institute of Government but we include some helpful snippets below. About VAT on Classic Retrofit purchases In normal domestic transactions, we charge the buyer VAT and then pay the VAT to the taxman. This was also the situation with private buyers in the
  3. Sounds great! Enjoy the fuse panel installs πŸ‘πŸ»
  4. ok, I fitted the CDI+. 5 minute job. Car still works πŸ™‚ Starts, drives, idles - all perfect. Plug and play. Hardest part was to verify timing before and after, that took most of the about 5 minutes it took me to fit the CDI+. I am not ready to explore the advanced functions - need to book a dyno to get real feedback. Very happy with the result right now. Fuse panels next ......
  5. When installed the new blower only runs on one speed which is high on the high slide position (white wire), no low and no medium. As Jonny suggested, I have pulled the slide control panel from the car and thoroughly tested each wire for continuity. That test was positive for each wire. I cleaned all terminals for each slide position and the ground and have now bench tested the original blower first using newly purchased 6 pin plugs and receptacles with new wiring from the slide control panel to the old blower using the battery for 12v power in accordance with the factory wiring diagram. The or
  6. Looking forward to hearing more about the project. Can't beat doing it right πŸ‘πŸ»
  7. thanks - yes, I was thinking similar. I will report back, for sure, but the idea is really to use the 123 'flat' and do all my timing in the CDI+. It all stems from that I could not see a way to lock the advance on the early/old/mid year dizzy, and I did not want to take my working dizzy I just bought apart and maybe stuff it up. Could not get hold of my old, broken one that my mechanic replaced a few months ago to play with the innards. cant wait for x-mas when my CDI+ box will be under the tree.... πŸ™‚
  8. It probably depends on how you view success. Don't think we know anyone who is using both so you will have to give us some feedback. We sell a locking device for the original distributor. Feedback suggests that the 123 mapping is a little crude whereas our map system has 20 points. Also, if you use our software, you can access all the other features at the same time including rev limiters and spark interval. As Jonny puts it: "I would not want to have any adjustment requiring fiddling with two devices". In terms of an upgrade comparison, CDI+ replaces a unit that can be unreliable
  9. so - using the CDI+ and the 123 - whats is more successful, flat curve on the CDI+ or on the 123? they are both very capable, - i got the 123 to loose the points and not have to worry about the centrifugal advance sticking or as in my case mot being able to lock it and take advantage of the CDI+ Set me right, please πŸ™‚
  10. Best news of the year for the 140k+ 964/993 owners !! I'm wondering how much weight will be saved on deleting all this heat exchanger/ a/c stuff at the rear ! Better weight distribution anyway ! I think most of us wait for a complete HVAC / a/c / heating / alternator refurbishment/improvement solution to do the job just once. Keep up the good work !
  11. All Sorted Jon. That new green lead had failed. Checked when dizzy was off and still no reading. New wire installed and around 590 ohms. Bingo. Reinstalled dizzy and first turn of key and the glorious flat six burst into life.
  12. Repeat the test with your meter at the green wire connector. Then, at the connector on the side of the distributor. You should get the same ohm reading as you a measuring across the sensor in the distributor. Narrow it down. My money would still be on the wiring β€˜upstream’. The wiring goes through the 14 way plug on the back of the relay panel. Check and clean contacts. You can splay the pins out a bit for better contact.
  13. Hi Jonny, Ive checked ohms at socket 7 and 31d and got nothing and then unplugged the green wire and wigged it and had around 595 moved it again and now I can’t get anything. It’s a new URO green lead. Could it be faulty or could it be a distributor fault? regards Dean.
  14. Hi Matt, thanks for the post! No dates on the launch of the new coil but, following a successful dynno test on our own car last week, we have sent a second group of prototypes out to some engine partners for testing. We will update our social feeds with updates as and when πŸ‘πŸ»
  15. Do you have any update on the release date for your coils? I have a 79 SC that has been retrofitted with an MSD box and blaster coil. Planning on an engine refresh soon so very happy to have found your website!
  16. Our latest Youtube video walks through a current R&D project to re-engineer the cabin air circulation and ventilation systems on Porsche 964 and 993 models. This project was a logical progression from an earlier 18-month project to redesign the troublesome Porsche 964 CCU - the dash-mounted control unit - to a fully microprocessor-controlled ECU and deliver a modern solution to a well known problem. Watch the video below for a sneak peek at the separate project to develop an electric heating system for this 400-volt EV customer. There is some crossover between the two systems (ICE and
  17. The headlights use a lot of water (hence the huge tank and separate pump - the pump on the original washer tank is headlights only) so you would empty the smaller tank pretty quickly if you plumbed them back in. Consequently, we haven't plumbed ours in, but you should be able to engineer a solution.
  18. Thanks! I got the correct bottle with built in pump. My car originally has three tubes coming out of old water pump. Going to the two front headlight washer nozzles and the other to the windshield. Is there a way to configure the tubes to keep the all washers working?
  19. Correct, the locking collar is only for the SC and Turbo distributors. Locking an earlier distributor is fairly easy. If you remove the vacuum unit, points, side clips and the 'spade' connector, you can pull out the internals to reveal the weights. I am not sure if all units are the same but on the early ones, there is a rectangular steel plate with the weights beneath. Put the unit in a vice, to stop the gear rotating and turn the centre shaft and watch the weight move. You want to lock the weights so they are fully out. best way is to drill and tap an M4 hole in the steel pla
  20. Of course it is!πŸ˜‡ - xmas cant come soon enough, so I can fit it! Any suggestions how to disable the centrifugal advance on a 74 911, the old style distributor? As I understand it the suggested method, and locking collar only works on the later ones....
  21. Many advantages and we are always chipping away, adding more features and refining the design. It is a great product πŸ˜‰
  22. I had a very similar experience, car ran fine, then suddenly lack of power and tacho needle all over the place. Searched for electrical faults, swapped CDI, no help. Then my mechanic had a feel of the distributor button - the bearing was worn, causing the cam to wobble, causing irregular sparks. New old dizzy fixed this! Still upgrading to the CDI+ though, so many advantages, and how long will my original CDI last.....?
  23. Hi Eddie. The same tank is used on Boxsters and 996s. If you google some pics you'll see the pump from an IB is not suitable. Plenty on eBay to choose from.
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