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  2. Hello, I recently purchased a CDI+ unit for my 1974 911 Targa from the folks at Pelican Parts. I have been chasing a small exhaust backfire and low RPM bucking/stumbling issue for several months and bought the CDI+ hoping that it would cure my issue. My original Bosch CDI unit was putting out about 150v at idle (measured with a direct voltage adapter) so I figured it was time for a replacement. Unfortunately, it did not cure my issue, however, the engine has a different tune to it at idle (sounds stronger) and under high load and WOT it absolutely screams! It feels like a completely different engine with the CDI+. I couldn't be happier. I finally bit the bullet and pulled my CIS and found a severely cracked and leaky air box. A replacement box (and other bits) are in the mail, and I can't wait to finally get my issues resolved. Thanks for putting together such a modern and elegant product! I am curious to find out more about some of the features available in the CDI+ software such as: tachometer smoothing, adaptive multi-spark and distributor input smoothing. I recently had my tachometer rebuilt by NHS but it still swings around more than I care for especially with high RPM shifts. I'm told this is normal and due to the large dial and the design of the internal movement. I am going to hook up the CDI+ to drive my tach and I'm wondering if the tachometer smoothing feature might settle my tachometer down a bit. Any details on these features would be greatly appreciated.
  3. Jonny has just filmed another product test video for our Youtube channel: this time it's a test of our double-condenser electric air conditioning system for classic Porsche 911s on the UK's hottest day of the year so far. With ambient temperatures circa 34°C (93°F), our new twin-condenser system takes just 90 seconds to get the blower air temperatures down to 7°C (50°F), with temps down to 5°C (40°F) in 2m30. After only 4 minutes, our twin-fan blower unit is pumping out cold air at 3°C (37.4°F), which is substantially lower than any original factory system could achieve. Because our modern system uses an electric compressor controlled by a bespoke ECU, efficiency actually improves at low revs (such as when sitting in traffic), as opposed to belt-driven compressors, which lose cooling ability at idle. We're always improving our products, but this latest air conditioning development is blowing us away! Find out more at the product pages or drop us an email for more information.
  4. A note to all air-con installers! Time and time again, installations of our A/C systems hit trouble because people do not pressure test the system before it is filled. Vacuum testing is not good enough - if your A/C person cannot pressure test your installation then fid another A/C person. Only pressure testing can validate your install as suitable for filling: vacuum testing will suck joints together and fail to highlight leaks. Jonny uses the slow puncture analogy: blow up a tyre with a slow puncture and it will leak for a while, but then may seal as the internal pressure drops and the hole where the is air escaping closes up. The tyre may then hold a lower pressure ad infinitum, but will not function as intended. The same is true of leaky air conditioning. Filling the system will instantly lead to a slow leak, taking the pressure down until the leak seals. The installer troubleshoots on the basis that the pressure is still as initialised, when actually it has dropped to the point where the system will not perform correctly. ALWAYS PRESSURE TEST YOUR INSTALLATIONS! No exceptions!!
  5. We worked with a bespoke classic Mini builder to convert 6 classis Minis for export fitted with Classic Retrofit electric A/C. Here are some photos from our development installation on a test mule. The finished kits were full integrated. Given the lack of space in the car, we had to move a few parts. The original heater unit was removed. The electric A/C compressor was mounted in the boot/trunk. The condenser went behind the engine grille and the oil filter was moved to leave space for the fans. The complete installation was achieved with just two small holes added to the rear bulkhead.
  6. Here's an interesting fuse panel installation thread on Pelican with a clear panel over the front of the fuses. Some questions on jumpers and busbars - note that these are all integrated into our board.
  7. Love this customer video testimonial for our Bosch CDI ignition upgrade unit in a 1970 Porsche 911 T - 2.2-litre car now running very well!
  8. Back to back voltage stability testing of our CDI+ unit versus an original Bosch CDI:
  9. Great video by our mate Jeff shared on his Youtube channel - installation of a Classic Retrofit upgraded fuse panel!
  10. Here's a video tour of our Porsche 911 SC demo car! This 1982 SC is our regular daily driver (used every day except in the depths of winter) and the test bed for all of our products.
  11. Jonny's video guide to the old-style Porsche 911 alternators and how our products improve on the original design, delivering a much higher output - even at tickover - is a must-watch for anyone considering upgrading to this superb product. Feel free to ask any questions in the technical forum.
  12. Here's a video from Jonny on installing CDI and using our optional distributor lock to disable the dizzy weights and use the CDI+ unit to control the ignition curve.
  13. Here's a great video from Jonny on installing our CDI+ unit and locking the distributor to set the CDI up to control the ignition curve. Questions welcome in the CDI technical forum.
  14. Regular viewers of our Youtube channel will have seen the sneak peek of our new range of ignition coils in test on Jonny's 911. Wound by hand here in the UK, these coils are our solution to the poor quality items from Brazil currently being sold as OEM equipment, and low grade aftermarket items. The new Classic Retrofit ignition coils are built to a proper spec and testing has so far been very positive! No release date has been set - it really comes down to production times once we are happy with the final design. Stay tuned!
  15. Here's our advice: The Porsche 911 electric air conditioning half kit would work for this application but performance will be limited to the condition of the original parts. The 1984 dash layout does not have the bigger vents of later Carreras. While we find the evap on low mileage later cars to be capable of delivering decent air, there is no substitute for the double cage fan of our kit and it is not that much more expensive to add. Plus it looks factory. Resale value on Classic Retrofit parts is also pretty decent and they sell quickly, so if one decided to sell a car down the road, one could pull our full system, reinstall the original parts and sell a full CR system, rather than selling a half kit later. There would be a wider market for the full kit. We recommend the alternator upgrade on all A/C installs nowadays. The system will work with the later 3.2 alternators, but there is a big improvement in idle performance and more on the upgraded 6-phase alt.
  16. Customer asks: I have an 1984 911 M491 that had AC from the factory but it has been modified with a 3.3 turbo and the ac compressor has been pulled out. Looks like all other factory items AC parts are present...I just need the half kit? Will I need a beefed up alternator to handle the added electric AC system?
  17. From Jonny042 on Pelican: I'm a happy customer of CR. The CDI+ for my project is working great. I've had a few questions along the way (I'm like that). Jonny Hart has always been more than helpful and courteous and his communication has always been excellent - occasionally he takes a day or two to respond but it's always worth the wait. They are a small company up to big things!!!
  18. It is always best to lock the distributor weights in the fully advanced position. Firstly, If the locking fails, then the engine cannot be over-advanced. Secondly, in most cases it means you won't have to re-position the drive gear. Procedure: 1) ‘Fixed Timing’ means that the CDI unit does not adjust the timing. You need to clear this box in the configuration (no tick) to enable the CDI+ to control timing. 2) Take the maximum advance required for the engine and subtract the static advance (typically 5 BTDC). 30 - 5 = 25. 3) Draw a ’simplified' curve (below) with max 25 and set the ’Trigger Point’ value high enough so that the graph is below the red area. (the 0 idle area is just so you can start the car easier) 4) Start the engine and bring it to 2000 RPM+ and adjust the distributor so the timing light reads 30 deg. (in my graph anything above 2000 gives 25 plus the 5 static = 30). You now have the timing dialled in so you can do anything you like with the curve.
  19. A customer asks: My car is a 1966 911 SWB. There's no fan lever on the dashboard, but where will I be able to adjust the airflow? Jonny's answer: The ’66 SWB will require some modification for installation but it has been done before. Have a look at this news item: https://www.classicretrofit.com/blogs/news/how-to-install-electric-air-conditioning-in-a-1967-porsche-911-swb For a short-wheelbase 911, the main points are as follows: 1) The cowl stay must be removed 2) The area under the hood inlet needs to be modified to work with the blower inlet 3) Holes are required in the bulkhead to let air in and out of the car 4) a switch is needed to operate the fan 5) Vents are required (suggest under the dash and clock position)
  20. Jonny replied: On both the Singer cars ( mainline and DLS ) there are two condensers and they are under the wings. These are non standard parts which have been tightly packaged into the under fender area and they are exclusive to SVD. They would probably not fit your car anyway as everything is different under there. Our 964 system uses a single condenser in the left hand fender, in the same general area close to the factory position but tilted at an angle (below). You may find you could get this to work by trimming the rear of the horn grilles / turn signal housings. As you probably know with a backdate, the early style valance is generally not as deep or low as the 964 item so the condenser becomes exposed. One of our customers does use two of our condensers in a backdated 964 but I am not sure whether they have an oil cooler (see below) but it could be up front. I believe they have modified the frunk floor so they may have recessed the area at the front to accommodate the oil cooler there. I think with these things, it can be easier to have the parts to hand.
  21. Mike asks: I am working on a 964 backdate and am interested in your system. I noticed that your products are used on Singer cars. Since I am doing a backdate, the front fenders or wings don’t provide as much space as the 964 fenders. Since I have a bigger engine, I will need extra cooling (likely a second oil cooler). I don’t like the RSR front bumper with oil cooler look and would like to have something like the Singer cars. When I look at the Singer, it looks like they are using a condenser in the middle. Are you supplying it? That position would likely work best for me.
  22. From Rob in Australia, running an 1969 Porsche 911 2.0 race car: I am still waiting for the correct exhaust system for the car to help with the mid range "hole", but thought I would get a quick dyno run in for starters. I have gained from approx 4900 rpm up and what is really surprising is the bump in power up at the top. Did a few runs and this was always repeatable. Blue run is Bosch CDI and red line is CDI+. Hopefully the exhaust will smooth things out and then I can start fine tuning and playing with ignition advance.
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Classic Retrofit designs and manufactures direct-replacement modern electronic upgrades for classic cars. The Classic Retrofit forum supports our products and the community installing and enjoying our classic car upgrades!

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