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  2. We've added two great new products for classic Porsche 911s using our electric air conditioning. The first is a rotating underdash vent assembly. Sold in pairs, these ducts are a great addition to the ventilation system on your 911. They allow directional control of cool air to your body but still allow hot air to go to your feet. Each duct can be rotated so you can divert passenger side cooling to the driver side for increased comfort. The vents can be used with the standard ventilation system or with our Electrocooler electric A/C system. To install, simply remove the original und
  3. Earlier
  4. You can do this but we recommend dual condensers on all AC installs now. Definitely in Tx!
  5. I live in Austin, Tx and I am considering dual condensers. After reading I was wondering it I should try just one condenser at first. Is it feasible to add a second one later?
  6. It's a common misconception that the tachos are 'driven' from a voltage signal. The opposite is true, the tacho input pin is pulled up to a voltage and the points or the CDI box GROUNDs it to create the square wave input. For this reason, the voltage observed depends on the tacho end, not the CDI or points end. It kind of depends on the tacho and the electronics inside it. 8v is fairly common. I would check your alternator/battery voltage as tacho weirdness can indicate a faulty voltage regulator.
  7. On a full kit, there would be no reason to retain the original AC fan control as there is no longer a separate fan for AC. Our AC unit integrates Ac and fresh air into a single blower. As per the above, there is no temperature control because the system works to achieve a pre programmed cabin temperature of 21 deg C. You can change this when setting up. On.a half kit, the original evaporator blower is retained and you can retain the AC blower speed knob. The temperature knob would have no function for the same reason as above.
  8. Our ECU does all the work to keep cabin temp constant and there is therefore no control interface in the current system. We do have a control panel optional upgrade coming but there is no way to use any of the original Porsche controls with our digital system.
  9. Hello, I have been driving my tachometer off the distributor in my 1974 911 with a 3-pin CDI+. My tach started to act up with some minor bouncing the other day. I decided to check the points trigger signal to the CDI+ with my Picoscope and noticed it has an 8v square wave signal to the box and tach. Is this the normal signal for a 3-pin CDI+? I always thought the later tachs need an 11+ volt signal. Any input would be helpful!
  10. I've got an '84 911 American Spec Carrera that came with 'factory' A/C. I'm finally ready to take the plunge and replace the original A/C and definitely thinking of Classic's electric system. One thing I would like to do different is I would like to retain the original built in fan control and temperature control of the existing system. Has anybody else ever done this? Any reason why wiring to that instead of the single kit on/off button wouldn't work?
  11. Hi Ovidijus Thanks for fitting the panels and the positive feedback. Round relay testing has been perfect so it appears they are ready to go. We have a new starter this week and R&D support is in his job description, so will get these and some other new ideas signed off and move to production. Expect them in 2021 👍🏻
  12. Hi, Johnny, Just installed your fuse panels, very happy with those. Any ETA now on the round relay replacements coming on sale? Ovidijus
  13. Bonjour Alexandre! We're not engine or timing experts, so offer only the advice contained in the manual. As you have found, there is some feedback from other enthusiasts online and I am sure Jonny will be along to share his experience with his SC shortly. There is no real substitue for a run on a chassis dyno, where one could check what the car is doing under load and optimise the settings that way. Take it step by step, whatever you do.
  14. Hi all, I've just bought a CDI+ for my Porsche 3.0 SC EURO 180 HP from 1979 with low compression (8.5). For your information, I use only RON 98 gas. Now I would like to lock the distributor and run a full ignition map with CDI+, and so that optimize the ignition of my engine. I've got on Internet some personalized advance curves for 3.0 SC that people set up in their CDI+ but there are none applicable to my setup: Porsche 3.0 SC EURO 180 HP from 1979 full stock. Indeed advance curves I found are for SC 204 HP or 188 HP, or upgrades with SSI, 964 camshaft and PMO. So could
  15. This extra link only appears on 1974 models (must be to do with only having 18 fuse ways). Our built in terminal links replicate the bus bars on the back of the blocks. You can add a wire link or you could nudge the allocation to the left where there are 4 terminals bussed together on out panel. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/170417-fuse-panel-diagram-picture.html
  16. Hi Stu - look further down the body and you'll see there is another factory hole at the bottom front corner of the inner wing, below the bumper shock mount. That is where you want to be with the larger hose. There is a factory hole on the front slam panel for the smaller hose.
  17. Hi Mark, early cars - 74/75 - bridge the gap from longhood to shorthood and the wiring can be quite a challenge! I will find out more about this and come back to you.
  18. Hi Chris, thanks for asking! The new components require a system rethink electrically and we are also working on own own heat ideas that do not involve the heat exchangers in the traditional way. We are not ready to commit to a path on the heat side yet but will keep everyone informed as milestones are reached. Your current system would need a change to the way the blower is wired and there would be some other tweaks too of course, but it is still early days on development so not going to say much more than that for now. The cars already running the digital panel are scratch-built, so we
  19. Hi. I have the blower and compressor mounted, and am about to mount the condenser in the rear of the left rear tire well, with the pipes running under the car to the front left fender and then up and into the trunk. I’ve found 2 grommet holes near the front left corner of the trunk that are above the battery (see pic attached). They are in the right place but seem too thin to allow the #6 and #8 pipes through. Does it just need more force, or do I need to widen the holes, or are there better locations I should be using? Cheers, Stu
  20. Hi Johnny, Can you share anymore details about the digital A/C control panel and electric servo blend valves? I understand that you are still developing it. Is the plan to go electric heating or retain the heat exchangers with a servo control on the valves and all is controlled by the ECU? How much customization is going to be possible. I have your A/C blower with a engine driven compressor. Would all of that have to be replaced or will we be able to replace the valves and control panel? I will not hold you to it, I understand things change in R&D a lot. Just looking for an ide
  21. Hi, just installed replacement fuse board on my uk 74 911. I have electric windows wired in to fuse 16 with a copper link to fuse 15 which is internally linked to fuse 14 and 13 which all become live with ignition on. I am wondering way their is no internal link to fuse 16 as well? as I have to leave copper link in for windows to work off ignition circuit. Regards Mark
  22. Hi Mark, apart from very early models, Porsche use brass 'ferules' crimped on to the ends of all wires that go to the fuse panel. So, if the wire end is bare, this is either not a standard wire or the wire has been cut. I would carefully review the fuse panel drawing for the '86 to work out what is original and what is not. The headlights will not work unless the panel is secured to the metal bracket. The gold plated mounting hole below the 'H' terminal provides the ground. I trust you found the install manual ok? It covers intermediate terminals and grounding. It is on thi
  23. For some reason, the picture is upside down, but position 21 is full left on image. The top of the old fuse panel is bottom of image and you can see a small red wire jumping from the top of terminal 18 to 19. Weird. I did not use that on the new fuse panel. Should I? Also, my old panel had nothing attached to the top of terminals 15 and 17. Also strange. And I put it all together and everything works (I think) except the headlights. Should any wire be attached to the terminal labeled H on the new panel?
  24. Hello, I have an '86 911. The fuse panel had upper only terminals between 4/5 and 10/11. I read on the pelican forum you can insert the wires into either adjoining connector, but how? The holes only accommodate so much wire. I think I can put the 4/5 wires into the empty number 2 position. But there is no way I can fit the 10/11 wires into either the 10 or 11 position. There just isn't enough room. And the wires are so tight, I cannot screw the fuse panel onto the body. Is that ok to just leave it that way? It's not very loose as those 34 year-old wires are pretty stiff.
  25. Update: the system is now fully installed and charged and it is delivering 3.9 degrees Celsius at the vents! An excellent result. Pat says the following: The system is up and running blowing air at 39 degrees F from the center vents. The mod I did in the frunk and smugglers box to keep the footwell bow tie center vent and the passenger side footwell vent worked and applies cold air to the footwell. Unfortunately my wallet is lighter by just under $150 but was worth it to finish the job. Adding up all the cost I’m just under $6K and the money was well spent on reliable AC, upgraded chargin
  26. Florida resident and 1980 SC Targa owner, Pat Henry, has embarked upon his Classic Retrofit electric A/C installation, including our relocated Boxster washer tank and the upgraded alternator. We recommend the double condenser setup for all customers in high humidity environments (such as Florida) but Pat has decided to try and keep the original Porsche condenser as part of his installation. He is documenting the project in an excellent Classic Retrofit A/C install thread on the Pelican Parts 911 technical forum. Early work to assemble the compressor mounting bracketry and the additional r
  27. Hi Stu Where there are no markings or in/out direction arrows then the direction does not matter. The hoses we use are lightweight. You could use some large industrial cable ties and secure them like that. It is not like securing heavy oil lines. Glad your install is going well. Good time of year to get it done!
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